Dior Men Resort 2023
COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY
Set on Pacific Avenue in Venice Beach, the Dior Men’s Resort 2023 show’s ocean-themed runway set design came to life along with the house’s latest guest designer, Eli Russell Linnetz of ERL and creative director Kim Jones. “I grew up in Venice Beach, I came to this street all the time,” said Linnetz speaking at a preview before the show. “This was basically my backyard.”
The collaboration between the two designers started back in 2021, when the pair was introduced by mutual friends. “I was 99% excited at the idea, 1% scared that I would lose myself, just because Kim has such a strong vision of the world and his collections are so refined and striking. My world is so much more chaotic,” said Linnetz. “But the second Kim came to the studio, it felt easy, seamless.” (Vogue Runway). ERL’s story is straight out of Hollywood. A film student turned designer, he began working in Kanye West’s artistic studio, directing videos for the likes of Teyana Taylor. Being Lady Gaga’s personal photographer, he also launched his ERL brand in 2018 and is one of several bright young finalists up for this year’s LVMH Prize. As a jumping start for the collection, the pair used Linnetz’s date of birth, 1991. “I think people would assume that I would be more into the Galliano archive because it’s so theatrical, but actually through my research I become more interested in diving into something that hadn’t been touched before,” (Vogue Runway). A marriage between Parisian couture and SoCal cool, the slogan “California Couture,” appeared on turtleneck sweaters.
COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY
COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY
COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY
COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY
COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY
The collection consists of 41 extremely covetable (and delightfully wearable) looks that fused the Dior codes with ERL’s outré take on hallmarks of American design. Satin blazers with front sleems, signature light gray, newspaper print was the Dior “side of things” while ERL played with yin-yang swirl sweaters, skate shoes, and long capes. Tiny saddle bags took an elevated look on the classic skater keychain wallet and beaded veils were an eye-catching trim. “It’s interesting to see how Kim works because he really approaches everything like a film director,” says Linnetz. “In a sense the bigger picture here felt decidedly fresh, an example of what can happen when two creative minds from seemingly different ends of the fashion spectrum—and different sides of the world—come together to exchange ideas and find common ground” (Vogue Runway).