EGONlab Escapes Reality to Fix It

Fashion Week find: French label EGONlab 

Debuting their 7th collection today in Paris, where some of us were introduced to this self proclaimed iconoclast and heavily influenced by punk label. A baby in terms of its debut as it was founded in 2018 by friends Florentine Glémarec and Kevin Nompeix, a creative duo driven by their set in stone vision; understanding todays needs by analyzing our past. 

Fashion, music and art are the foundation of our culture, one that when looked at closely tells us exactly what we should be doing and what we need to change. That is why subliminal and in-your-face messages are at the core of EGONlab’s DNA. 

Courtesy of Vogue

Starting with their name, an ode to the play on masculinity and femininity by 20th century expressionist artist Egon Schiele. A message delivered through their unisex design proposals which amplify this generation's qualities; inclusivity being its most prominent one. 

In their short time since it’s debut EGONlab’s creativity and message has been recognized as it won the ANDAM 2021 award, same accolade given to the likes of Marine Serré and Y/Project. Technology plays an important role, if not the most important, in modern discourses. Florentine and Kevin have expressed how they look at you her generations' consumerism patterns to understand better what they want and AI comes high on the list. Immersive experiences such as virtual fashion has been making its way into the highest fashion houses, including EGONlab. They partnered with Galeries Lafayette to transform some of their pieces into NFT’s available for people to try on. Part of the French Touch iniciativa that celebrates emerging artists and designers. 

Courtesy of @tannerareese

Another important message young brands work closely with is sustainability. A term that has lost all meaning as it is used lightly, it has become sort of a band-aid that makes us consumers feel good about our consumerist choices. EGONlab’s proposal comes in the form of garments made to order avoiding unnecessary waste and have also collaborated with DS Automobiles and Post Carbon Lab creating garments that absorb CO2. I don’t fully understand how it works but apparently Post Carbon Lab has created a photosynthetic coating made from living algae which absorbs CO2. Don’t know the longevity of the garments or the environmental impact it’s manufacturing has but it seems like a useful proposal amidst all the crappy sustainable options we are given. 

Courtesy of Paris Fashion Week

This time it was all about escapism, escaping into our subconscious. I like their idea of how dreams are essentially reality, one isn’t more true than the other. Presenting a collection that was the epitome of what unisex fashion looks like today. Tina Isaac-Goizé said it best: it is essentially anything Timothee Chalamet would wear, just to make it a few sizes bigger. 

Distressed denim, 70s inspired mullets, leather biker shorts, velour double breasted blazers, cut-out pants attached to shorts, no-pants pants, skirts over jeans, structural quilted bomber jackets, flare pants, layering and argyle motifs constructed their Paris Fashion Week FW23 collection. With my favorite being the genderless, modern take on the Gryffindor uniform.