Heels; the Kings Favorite Shoe
What comes to mid when you think about genderless fashion? Did heels come to mind? Yes, heels.
Courtesy of Footwear News, SJP wearing the iconic Manolo blue heels from Sex and the City
Heels are as old as time, Chinese, Egyptians and Persinas all had their version of the heeled shoe. One that later became the king's preferred shoe of choice. Heels, as we know them today, have a long history that started out with the Persian cavalry. Horse riders needed a shoe that could grip with the stirrups. Soon, heels were used by all men as it was a proof of their wealth and social status. (Heels meant one had horses which meant one had money) as globalization and exploration took place, Persian fashion and customs leaked into the European mainstream, where aristocrats from European courts adopted the high heel trend.
The trend back then was focused on showing legs, men wanted people to notice their toned calves and thighs so they wore tight thighs, high heels and colored stockings.
Courtesy of FIT NYC
Heels symbolized social status, military prowess and refined taste. Symbolism that reigned throughout King Louis XIV's mandate, as he became history's most famous high heel wearer. The same Louis that made red the official color of heels, later another Louis would make it its own.
Inherently, nothing is naturally gendered so that’s why clothing has jumped from gender to gender throughout history. Heels did the same, around 1720 heels worn by women became more ornamented and narrower while mens became more broad. Consequently men drew away from heels and their femininity after the French Revolution to erase all traces of the monarchy.
This isn't the end of man's relationship with heels, they came back in the form of cowboy boots. Cowboy boots came to the rescue as it safeguarded men's masculinity while being stylish. Boots and heels during the 20th century became popular by the Beatles. They wore a hybrid boot style of a Cuban heel and the Chelsea model. Bowie, known for breaking all gender norms, wore every style of platform heeled shoes. Teaching his generations and the ones to come about acceptance of the non-binary and freedom of expression. During the 90’s one couldn’t call himself a rockstar without a good pair of heeled boots.
Womens heels also saw a major revolutionary transition during the early 50’s. The technological advances of that decade made stilettos a possibility. Made from aluminíceme and injection molding plus arch support design, women became 5 inches taller. Multiple designers are credited to its invention, Ferragamo, Vivier and Perugia but really it was celebrities like Marilyn Monroe who turned stilettos into a femenine fashion staple.
Vivier ad from L’Officiel 1959
Courtesy of Vogue
Heels from 1985 photographed by Elgort
Heels have reached sky-high heights, 12 inches to be exact, with Alexander McQueens’ Armadillo boot from his 2010 summer collection.
Stilettos are synonyms of seduction and fetishization but also associated to womens formal work attire. A versatile shoe that comes in literally every shape, size, color and form to satisfy everyone’s personal taste.