Hiphop’s Influence on Fashion Trends in the 90s

Rapper Sean Combs and Model Kate Moss for Vogue Article: Photo: Annie Leibovitz via Vogue

Over the past few years, hip hop fashion has taken over luxury runways. It was (and still is) one of the biggest music genres in the world. People often pay attention to what or who hip hop rappers and producers wear on any given day. With it being a huge genre, it has been able to influence the fashion industry and in turn, fashion trends. People are looking back and wearing the baggy styles, gold jewelry, etc. from the 90s hip hop scenes. Today, this hip hop fashion has been turned into streetwear and athleisure and is worn by many people within the fashion world. 

Rapper LL Cool J in the 1990s Photo: Michael Ochs Archives via The Los Angeles Times 

When it first gained popularity, hip hop was more of a movement that was often seen as dangerous and violent by the public. Something that was (and still is) racially motivated as hip hop, as a genre, is something that has been popularized and formed by the African American community. Luxury fashion brands did not collaborate or hire rappers for campaigns or runway shows like they do today because they did not want to be associated with any of it. However, this doesn’t mean fashion wasn’t used in the hip hop world. Rappers often used fashion to make a statement, flex or to express themselves.

In general, fashion is a big part of the identity of black people in America and hip hop is no exception. Now, hip hop is more mainstream and hip hop culture and its aesthetics have also become popular. 

Hip Hop Trio Salt N Pepa in Dapper Dan Jackets Photo: Michael Ochs Archives via The Los Angeles Times 

We cannot talk about hip hop fashion in the 90s without talking about Dapper Dan and his influence on the industry. Daniel Day aka Dapper Dan is a designer from Harlem, New York, who has been dubbed the “King of Knockoffs.” In the 80s and 90s, he grew his brand by pioneering hip hop style. He often reworked designer garments to make them new. His use of designer logos created the logomania trends still seen and designed today. His designs were worn by various musicians, athletes and celebrities. Making his designs rise in popularity and eventually get noticed by several brands. However, him getting noticed wasn’t entirely a good thing because he ended up getting sued for copyright infringement in his designs ending up with hi closing his boutique in 1992. 

Dapper Dan x Gucci 2018 Capsule Collection Photo: Ari Marcopoulos via Fashionista 

Now, brands use the same designs that Dapper Dan made in the past for themselves. Gucci, for example, created a jacket that was similar to one of his designs for their 2018 cruise collection, which sparked outrage to the public for cultural appropriation. After the justified outrage, Gucci collaborated with the designer on a capsule collection and a book titled “Dapper Dan’s Harlem.” He also brought back his beloved brand recently under the name Dapper Dan of Harlem.

Dapper Dan pioneered the heavy use of luxury logos and logomania that luxury brands profit off of today and influenced the hip hop fashion of the 90s.

Run DMC wearing their signature Adidas tracksuits, gold chains and fedoras Photo: Andre Csillag via Billboard

Music videos were another thing that made hip hop fashion popular. In the 90s, music videos were important for any artist hence the formation of TV channels such as MTV, which started by showing music videos from different artists. For the first time mainstream culture looked at rappers for fashion inspiration. They were seen as cool and trendy to the public so anything they wore in their music videos instantly became popular.

Artists were seen wearing brands such as Adidas, Tommy Hilfiger, Kangol, Polo Ralph Lauren, etc. These music videos brought matching tracksuits, casual sneakers, bucket hats, and varsity jackets into popularity. At this point, rappers began to find their footing in the fashion world. For instance, rapper and business mogul Sean Combs created Sean John and in 1995, the Wu-Tang Clan launched Wu Wear. Clothing brands that pushed hip hop fashion further into the fashion world and allowed them to directly give the fans the clothing that they wanted. 

Marc Jacobs Fall 2017 Show Photo: Jonas Gustavsson via The Los Angeles Times 

The influence of hip hop is still echoed today. For instance, for his Fall 2017 collection Marc Jacobs sent models down the runway wearing looks inspired by the documentary “Hip Hop Revolution.” Now, hip hop fashion has turned into streetwear, a trend that has dominated fashion trends and runways. However, it is important to know where this popular trend comes from. Black culture has cultivated and influenced many facets of the fashion industry with little to no credit or acknowledgement and hip hop fashion is a part of that culture.