Lemaire Makes the Conventional Unconventional
Lemaire’s new collection is an experiment in classic but genderless fashion. The French brand, located in Le Marais, has created a series of looks consisting of simple pieces that still manage to bring something new and unique to the table.
Courtesy of Vogue Runway
If this was not labeled as a menswear show, it would be impossible to tell that it is a menswear collection. The casting did not seem to discriminate against any gender with male, female, and non-binary models whom all looked at home in clothes that defied boundaries.
The cast of the show was diverse in many ways; in addition to a wide variety of genders and ethnicities, there was also a range of ages represented. Older models are quickly becoming more accepted and sought out in high fashion, and Lemaire successfully utilized such models to demonstrate the simple message that their clothing looks great on anyone.
Courtesy of Vogue Runway
Resembling a street scene more than a fashion show, the actual show was expertly staged. It took place outdoors, with models walking into elevators, slouching against poles, striking up conversations with each other, sitting on benches, and watching on as more and more people bustled into the street. They carried duffel bags and purses, coats, and some even had extra shoes slung from their bags. As the show ended, all of the models stood along the sidewalk that was their runway, looking around as if waiting for something, before all hurrying off in different directions.
If not for the striking height and beauty of the people and the cohesive garments in which they were all draped, one might think that this was simply a bustling Parisian train station. This staging was genius not only because it made for a unique and interesting spectacle, but also because it successfully communicated the message that this collection would be perfectly functional in everyday life.
Courtesy of Vogue Runway
The clothing itself is timeless and sophisticated. Textiles are high quality and wide-ranging: raw silk, thick wool, utilitarian canvas, shiny leather. The pieces are relatively simple, primarily in earth tones like khaki, forest green, or dark camel, and uncomplicated in design. However, there are many careful details and unique hemlines that elevate the pieces in this collection to something memorable and exceptional.
Silhouettes are particularly slouchy, though not to the extent that the models swam in fabric. Instead, it showed that this dynamic collection is perfect for layering and combining. Drawing both from utilitarian and formalwear influences, Lemaire’s collection places classic pieces into a contemporary landscape. It is clearly grounded in French style, but with obvious east Asian influences.
With this collection, Lemaire demonstrates that it is not impossible- or even that complicated- to create a genderless, timeless wardrobe that maintains elegance and sophistication while solidly cementing itself as relevant in the contemporary world of fashion.