Phoebe is Back! I Repeat, Phoebe is Back!
To talk about fashion is to talk about Phoebe Philo. You can’t write about innovation, trends, women’s wear and minimalistic femininity without mentioning Phoebe. A force of fashion who revolutionized fashion history and paved the way for what we know now as the ultimate feminine design. Her work at Chloé and Celine set a before and after in the fashion industry. Creating the blueprint for brands in the likes of The Row who utilized Phoebe’s design and philosophy as the base for their works.
The last few months we’ve heard non stop the term quiet luxury. A phrase which, in my opinion, has been gravely misused and thrown around like confetti. But alas, today, Monday 30th of October, comes a brand that will rightfully claim the term. It is not a common occasion for a designer to create such an anticipated debut, or in this case return. But it’s Phoebe Ohilo we are talking about, of course we are all on our toes waiting inpacientley to see what the creative has in store.
All these accolades are nice and all but, who is Phoebe Philo? Long story short everything starts back in Paris where Phoebe was born, cementing her roots in sophistication and chic minimalistic taste. One she mixed with London’s modern and cosmopolitan design while studying at Central Saint Martins. Soon after graduating from the prestigious university she was selected by Stella McCartney to be her assistant during her time at Chloé. Soon after in 2001 Stella would step down and Phoebe took the reins as the new creative director for the luxury firm. Leaving a permanent mark as she revolutionized the brand with iconic designs like the Paddington bag in 2004. As if that wasn’t enough she then went over to Celine where she worked as creative director for over 10 years. Time in which she revived the brand with her signature stamp of elegance and sensuality. Her secret? Designing from a perspective that alludes to a feminine sensuality.
Phoebe made Celine and Chloé luxury fashion houses that are a part of each season's discourse. Not an easy achievement, specially in an industry where women are not given the opportunity to design. Have you seen who are the creative directors of major fashion houses lately? Hint; not a single woman.
How to recognize her designs? If it is minimalistic, has texture, comes in neutral tones, stands out for its structured silhouette and fluid movements and it looks like an elevated basic, then you are booking at a Phoebe Philo design.
How to describe her work? Simple; it’s sophisticated.
Back in 2021 Phoebe shook us all to our cores when she announced the launch of her eponymous label! And today we have access to the first collection. What do we think so far? Perfection.
What makes Phoebe’s designs truly beautiful it’s their simplistic beauty. Now, simple doesn’t mean easy to make or design. The simplest things are the hardest to achieve as they need to be precise and serve a specific purpose and no one does it like her. Every predice she designs is a jewel on its own, you can see the influences from minimalism design guided by the female gaze. A sensuality only women understand.
Take a look at collection A1 and get excited for women in fashion!