The Models of the ‘90s and Where the Modeling Industry Is Today
The fashion industry wouldn’t be what it is without models. The runway would not shine as much as it does during the numerous fashion weeks throughout the year, or the beautiful magazine photoshoots and campaign photoshoots… Need I say more? Beautiful clothing on beautiful people provides such a work of art to our eyes. Acknowledging the gorgeous models of the ‘90s, we run through a timeline of what the industry was and how it got to where it is today.
Known as “The Big Six” supermodels, Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Linda Evangelista, Kate Moss, Christy Turlington, and Claudia Schiffer were some of the few that set the stage for future models. They were the It girls of the ‘90s and everyone was in awe when seen at the most extravagant events and runway shows. The supermodels were also known to be a huge part of Gianni Versace’s runway shows and campaigns. They also made an appearance together in George Michael’s “Freedom! ‘90” music video that notoriously grew popular.
Naomi Campbell is pictured above at the Azzedine Alaïa AW 1991/1992 show in a sheer leopard-print catsuit with ruffle cuffs. She has walked many other runways and has been on elite guest lists to parties everyone wanted to be a part of. She is credited by the world as the trailblazer for black models. In the beginning of her career, she appeared in a few music videos for Bob Marley and Culture Club before signing with Synchro modeling agency. At the age of 16, Campbell was featured on the cover of British Elle. Soon after she became the first black model to be on the cover of British Vogue in August 1988, then later for French Vogue and American Vogue. Yves Saint Laurent even threatened Vogue that he would withdraw his advertising if the company refused black models to be included.
Growing up in Illinois, Cindy Crawford worked on a nearby farm during the summer detasseling corn when she was spotted and photographed by a local news photographer. The next year she entered the Look of the Year modeling contest held by Elite Model Management, one of the largest agencies in the world. As a finalist of the contest, this secured many modeling assignments as she later pursued her career in modeling even more by dropping out of Northwestern University. She relocated to New York City in 1986 and had her big break on Vogue’s August 1986 issue. She later became the first modern fashion model to appear in Playboy’s magazine in July 1988 and hosted a fashion TV show, House of Style, which had a 50% male audience. Crawford launched her career and gained the title as a supermodel soon after signing a multimillion dollar deal with Revlon.
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Linda Evangelista enrolled in a local modeling school at the age of 12 to feed her love for fashion. In 1978, she entered the Miss Teen Niagara contest where she did not win, but attracted the attention of Elite Model Management. Evangelista relocated to New York CIty to sign with Elite in 1981. The agency sent her to Paris 3 years later where she gained traction in the industry as she appeared on the French Vogue magazine cover. With her short haircut and resemblance to Sophia Loren, Evangelista became the face of Versace in 1989 and for Revlon in 1990. This same year, Evangelista was named “50 Most Beautiful People” for People magazine. Following many more runway shows and fashion documentary features, Evangelista was a fashion icon.
Kate Moss is pictured at a Vogue party in London, May 1998. She gained popularity when her career skyrocketed after the grunge era. Prior to her career, she was noticed by Sarah Doukas, the owner of the modeling agency, Storm, at the age of 14. In 1992, Moss signed with Calvin Klein that highlighted skimpy attire which caused an uproar. Moss faced backlash as it seemed she was promoting anorexia and pedophilia. Despite the problems Moss had faced, she continued campaigning and doing what she loved. She campaigned for many fashion houses such as Dior, Burberry, Chanel, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, and others. While displaying styles for designers, she was also a muse for them due to her iconic style herself. Moss continued her career into the 21st century and appeared on more than 300 magazine covers altogether.
With her effortless, elegant style and beauty, Christy Turlington remains one of the most influential supermodels of the ‘90s. Creating a look that resembled Audrey Hepburn’s Breakfast at Tiffany’s, Turlington wore a sleek black dress and pearls to further emphasize her elegant style at the Met Gala in 1992. Similar to many of her supermodel friends in the Big Six, she started modeling at the age 14 after being spotted by a photographer while horseback riding in Miami. The photographs were sent to a local modeling agency. Two years later she signed with Ford Models. At age 18 she also moved to New York City to further her career in modeling. She appeared in Duran Duran’s music video, “Notorious”, and was also on the cover of German Vogue in January 1987 which helped her gain recognition. The model continued her endeavors by signing a contract with Calvin Klein to be the face of the brand from 1989-2007. She later launched her own brand called Turly Inc. which sold yoga-inspired clothing and services such as day spas.
Claudia Schiffer was spotted in a disco in Dusseldorf at age 15 by a Metropolitan Modeling Agency representative. After six months of graduating high school, the 5”11 blonde made her first appearance on the cover of Elle magazine. She then became the first model to be on the cover of Vanity Fair, Rolling Stone, the New York Times and People. The ‘90s were her stardom days, but maintained her status as being one of Karl Lagerfeld’s muses in 2007 and also appearing in the Ferragamo campaign. She has also made appearances in a few movies like Zoolander and Love, Actually. Her classic German looks have made her an international star forever.
However, at the time, the industry had more work to do. Paloma, Fernanda Ly, Aweng Chuol, Bella Hadid, and Kendall Jenner have been at the forefront of the fashion industry nowadays making inclusivity more apparent.
Not only skinny-mini’s are allowed to wear micro mini skirts that resurfaced just this year, but anyone who feels comfortable in wearing one can do so, and Paloma Elsesser is here to showcase that. Paloma identifies as a Black multiracial woman. She embraces her curves and tells her story to Vogue of how she went from rags to riches after moving to New York City for college. Fashion was never a big interest of hers as she was majoring in literature and psychology at the New School. Her friends were the ones that encouraged her to take up modeling as she held a distinctive, beautiful look to her. It wasn’t until Pat McGrath reached out to Paloma to be the face for the brand’s first images. McGrath as a Black woman in the industry had made Paloma feel comfortable about taking on this role.
“To see myself as this beautiful, glamorous creature was affirming,” she tells Vogue, “and there was something specifically comforting in having a plus-size Black woman there being supportive. I felt so seen.”
Posing for Vogue’s January 2021 cover and i-D’s cover has been a big change in not only Paloma’s life but a positive change for the industry as well to be more inclusive.
Fernanda Ly caught the eye of a Louis Vuitton scout in a mall in Sydney with her colorful hair. At 16, she was flown to Paris overnight to walk the AW15 show. Ly flew to New York City after her big break to continue working on campaigns and editorials. She is a byproduct of racial and stylistic difference within the industry and we can’t wait to see more work from her.
Born in a refugee camp in Kenya, Aweng Chuol was seen by a modeling agent when she was working in Mcdonald’s in Australia where she grew up. As one of 12 children, she was a very determined woman, thanks to her mom, and wanted to pursue a career in modeling. However, when she is not walking the runway like she does nowadays, she is studying law and is set to graduate next year. She does it all- she campaigned for Mugler as shown above, walked the runway and campaigned for Rihanna’s Savage x Fenty label, walked the runway for Pyer Moss, and many other shows. As a member of the LGBTQ+ community and a Black woman, Aweng has proven that you can do it all no matter who you are.
Bella Hadid has been at the forefront of fashion for the past couple of years. Having signed with IMG, Hadid has walked every runway imaginable and has set trends for the younger generations. In addition to her work with Balmain, Tom Ford, Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, and Coperni to name a few, she has been on three international Vogue covers and has walked the Atelier Versace runway alongside supermodels Caroline Murphy and Karen Elson. She has been the face of Bulgari’s jewelry line since February 2017 and has made multiple appearances at many award shows and festivals such as Cannes Film Festival.
Kendall Jenner is another beautiful face leading the fashion industry. Her first major break was when she was casted in the Marc Jacobs’ AW14 show. Since then she has accomplished a laundry list of things within the fashion industry. The model who first began her career as a reality star on “Keeping Up With the Kardashians”, has appeared on many Vogue international covers, has walked the infamous Victoria’s Secret runway, and is a brand ambassador for Estee Lauder. Jenner has continued to walk the runway on numerous fashion weeks for Chanel, Balmain, Off-White, and Fendi to name a few. She has also been on the cover of Harper’s Bazaar, and was featured in Interview, Paper and Vogue editorials.
The models of the ‘90s to now have demonstrated a diverse background and skill set outside of modeling. Of course the industry has a lot more work to do to leave room at the table for more people, but the industry has gradually became more inclusive these past couple of years.