The Punk Romantic “Co-Ed” Collection of Maison Margiela

COURTESY OF VOGUE

Blending haute couture and harnesses inspired by the punk movement, John Galliano is an avid storyteller and master in creating the narrative and character of Maison Margiela. The “Co-Ed” collection tells the story of a young gang of Galliano characters described as “revolutionaries with a conscience.” Collaborating with Pendleton, each look was composed of different pieces with contrasting materials. 

The entire collection is raw and unfiltered. The punk rock is mixed in with sheer skirts, fishnet tights worn with structural tops and fringed jackets. A salute to the great godmother of punk, Vivienne Westwood, the layers of 50s’ ball gowns mixed with rocker style accessories. Softening all the hard edges with cream cardigans and sprouting tufts of wool-like floral badges. “Tailoring finished with Maison Margiela’s signature unfinished look actually nods to high-Couture design, as if it’s destined to be made-to-measure but is in fact a pure styling element.” (Hypebeast) The looks were completed with tabi shoes, belts with safety pins, and studded bags. Closing off the show, Leon Dame’s eccentric walk included a patched oversized jacket, tabi loafers with fishnet tights, and a matching red/black printed set. Taken in the basement of the new house, installations from the last “Artisanal” couture theater Cinema Inferno were put in place. Mannequins were posed on sewing and cutting tables throughout the room. The American-Gothic story was the true inspiration. “All Galliano’s fantasies and experiments are made possible and grow upwards from this creative nerve-center. It’s the lab that hatches the formulae for the collections which fuel the ready-to-wear and accessories—and then supports all of the floors of business offices and studios of the house. And judging by the scale of it, it must be working very well.” (Vogue Runway)

The avant-garde fashion house presented their pieces off the runway as well, with celebrities such as Kylie Jenner, Naomi Campbell, and Manu Ríos attending the show. Naomi in an all black look, finished with a structured oversized blazer while Kylie took a softer approach, with a light blue tulle coat from the collection. Paired with a fitted and pointed bra light blue dress, chrome silver heels, and a mini purple bag. Fai Khadra’s all white statement look contradicted the black ambience. The designer had sent out collaged photocopied flyers with his invitations - like an invite to an underground gig, and they were seen on the models clutching them on the runway.