The Top 5 Shows from PFW Spring-Summer 2025
Paris has long been the pinnacle of the fashion industry, solidifying its status as a global style icon for centuries. Consequently, Paris Fashion Week stands out as one of the most significant events of the fashion calendar, if not the largest. France has established itself as a hub for style inspiration and innovation. Fashion Week provides a platform for showcasing the latest trends and designs that the city is renowned for. This fashion month has attracted attention to emerging talents in the industry, with Paris Fashion Week serving as a key stage for these brands to shine. Here are the top five shows from emerging designers featured at Paris Fashion Week.
Florentina Leitner Proudly Promotes Girlhood
The label Florentina Leitner was established in February 2022 by its founder, Florentina Leitner. She launched the brand shortly after graduating from the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium. The label made its debut at Fashion Week in September 2022 and has since become a regular participant. Florentina Leitner is best known for its striking 3-D prints and eco-friendly materials, particularly its popular 3-D floral designs. The collections are unapologetically feminine, featuring garments in bright pastel shades of blue and purple, alongside bold colors like black and red. The new collection showcases 3-D flower motifs and incorporates 3-D ribbons on some pieces for an even more playful, girly aesthetic. In the age of TikTok trends such as Coquette and Hot Girl Summer, Leitner has adeptly channeled these influences, celebrating the joys of girlhood.
Ruohan Takes a More Understated Approach
Ruohan is a Chinese luxury womenswear brand founded by designer Ruohan Nie in 2021. With a wealth of fashion knowledge gained from her education at Parsons in New York and in Paris, Nie channels her creativity through the brand’s philosophy: "Enrich Life with Effortless Spirit." At Paris Fashion Week, her latest collection was showcased at Lafayette Anticipations, an art exhibition space that blended art with music. The audience enjoyed a live quartet performance behind a transparent screen as models walked the runway, creating an immersive experience. The music held personal significance for Ruohan, who once played the cello.
In this collection, Nie adopted a more understated approach, characterized by minimalist and monotone colors, along with simple silhouettes. The styling was both polished and relaxed, resembling everyday wear suitable for various tasks or work environments. This effortless aesthetic makes the collection accessible to consumers seeking high-quality, comfortable clothing. In a fashion landscape often dominated by avant-garde designs, this simplicity is a refreshing change. While innovative and unconventional pieces are exciting to see on the runway, it is equally rewarding to witness designs that the average fashion-forward consumer can embrace.
Zomer Creates Their Own Parisian Garden
Zomer was founded in 2023 by designer Danial Aitouganov and stylist Imruh Asha. The name "Zomer," which means "summer" in Dutch, perfectly aligns with their new spring/summer collection. The collection transformed the Palais de Tokyo into a vibrant display of florals and bright colors, capturing the essence of the season. Aitouganov shared the inspiration behind the show with AnOther Magazine, recounting, "We were sitting in a garden there, in Savannah, talking about life, the universe, and all of its problems. Then we looked at each other and said, 'What would the garden of Zomer look like?'"
A standout feature of the collection is its innovative textiles. Some pieces showcased patchwork floral fabrics that combined various floral patterns into a single garment, while others utilized floral appliqués for a three-dimensional or textured effect. While florals for spring may not be groundbreaking, Aitouganov and Asha recognized the need to offer something unique to ensure their collection would stand out. By creatively exploring textile techniques, they made their collection more memorable. Zomer's garden-themed collection is truly ideal for the spring and summer.
Streetwear or Workwear? PRESSIAT Says Both
PRESSIAT is a genderless clothing label founded by Vincent Pressiat in 2021. Drawing inspiration from art and architecture, the brand offers Parisian fashion for all. At their recent "Burning Era" show, Pressiat explored themes that reflect the current climate crisis while nodding to the Burning Man festival. He shared with WWD, "It was an idea of hope in this land that is burning, given that we have wars everywhere." Although it rained on the day of the show, the designer was inspired by the desert landscape. The models walked the runway to live music performances by Rebecca Baby and Maxwell Sam Rezài Rashti.
The collection uniquely combined trendy streetwear with workwear, featuring oversized blazers with ripped seams and unconventional zippers—details rarely seen on traditional blazers. Dresses showcased a variety of styles, including ruching, rips, and hood attachments. Pressiat also seemed to draw influence from science fiction, as the collection featured high-fashion elements with exaggerated silhouettes, long shiny coats, and asymmetrical dresses. By pulling from current streetwear trends and infusing them with tailored workwear aesthetics, Pressiat successfully created a collection that feels both modern and elevated.
Abra Designs A Collection for A Dreamy Vacation
Abra, short for Abraham, is a women's and footwear brand founded by Abraham Ortuño Perez in 2020. Inspired by nostalgia for his childhood and family, particularly his sister, Perez draws from personal experiences to shape his designs. With an impressive background in the fashion industry, having worked for esteemed brands like Givenchy and Kenzo, Perez was propelled to create his own brand. While Abra has been known for showcasing collections off schedule in Paris, his latest collection made its debut on schedule during Paris Fashion Week.
Perez described the collection as "my dream summer; she’s a bit of a party girl, a little trashy, but has good style and has a good time. It seems chaotic, but it’s very chic." The collection was brimming with vacation-inspired looks, featuring leather scuba gear and standout ocean-patterned garments. Originally launched as an accessories brand, Abra transitioned to ready-to-wear in 2021. While Perez has cultivated a strong consumer base for his accessories, his ready-to-wear line is beginning to carve out its own identity in the fashion landscape.
Fresh Perspectives in Paris
Paris Fashion Week once again did not disappoint and proved why they are the top fashion cities in the world. These five shows and designers show how much potential the fashion world continues to have for the future. They mixed innovation with current trends within their collections, showing Paris' continued influence on the industry. These brands stood out within fashion and cemented their place in the industry. The fashion industry continues to change every day and new brands add a fresh perspective in the industry. As fashion continues to evolve, Paris will persist as the capital of fashion.