Valentino Reimagines Black Tie

Photo: Filippo Fior via Vogue

From the little black dress to the suit and tie, Valentino’s latest collection is a total celebration of black tie. Playful and classic, interesting but not too out of the box, this overall solid collection made it clear that creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli’s mission is to reach a young audience with a take on Valentino classics. 

Photos: Filippo Fior via Vogue

The collection felt very youthful; I wouldn’t be surprised to see these outfits on any of the cast of Gossip Girl, had the iconic show taken place today instead of during the early 2000s. It was almost like watching a teenager (though a very chic teenager) experimenting with their personal style on the runway; clinging to innocence, in many ways modest, but daring to attempt moments of boldness or sexiness. Perhaps this was intentional, because Piccioli’s inspiration for this collection came from his young daughter’s penchant for formalwear. 

Photo: Filippo Fior via Vogue

This evocation of youth came from color, as the collection was dotted with pastel pinks, yellows, and greens. It also came from funky patterns, like unevenly sized polka dots, checker prints, and cutouts, not to mention multicolored sequins and jewels. 

Photos: Filippo Fior via Vogue

Most effectively channeling this youthful spirit, however, was the combination of formalwear style and informal cuts; dress shirts and mini skirts, blazers and ties, oversized shirts with short dresses layered overtop. Not only was this reminiscent of a school uniform, but it also leaned into a bold playfulness so often associated with the tribulations of teenagedom. 

This reinterpretation of formalwear, with many genderless nuances, is a fresh take on something that has been done countless times. Still, there are countless ways to make black tie interesting, and there is no shame in tapping into this pool of inspiration once again.