Virginie Viard Bids Adieu: What’s Next for Chanel?

Chanel is arguably one of the most recognized and iconic fashion houses in the world. Anyone can recognize their double C logo or signature camellia flower, adorning different tweed and chiffon fabrics gracing the runway. The brand has only had three creative directors in its long run, including designer Virginia Viard, who has been designing for the brand for over thirty years, taking over as creative director for the last five years.

Last week, Chanel announced that she will be stepping down from her position. The statement reads:

“Chanel confirms the departure of Virginie Viard after a rich collaboration of five years as artistic director of fashion collections, during which she was able to renew the codes of the house while respecting the creative heritage of Chanel, and almost thirty years within the house. A new creative organization will be announced in due course. Chanel would like to thank Virginie Viard for her remarkable contribution to Chanel’s fashion, creativity and vitality.”

Her unexpected departure has left many people wondering what’s next for Chanel and who will replace her in the coveted role? 

Photo: Imaxtree via Fashion Magazine 

Chanel before Viard

Before Viard became the creative director, Chanel already had a long and rich history as a brand. After Coco Chanel’s death, the brands designs became stagnant and uninspiring. Women wanted more from Chanel, signaling it was time for a change. So, in 1983, the brand hired designer Karl Lagerfeld, who would go on to become one of history’s most recognizable names. Holding the creative director position, where he worked with Viard as a mentor. DLagerfeld's ability to modernize Chanel while honoring its heritage made his time at the brand the most popular and recognized in its history. He rebuilt Chanel to align with the changing times, leading to significant growth and revitalization of the brand.

Karl Lagerfeld and Viard Photo: Pascal Le Segretain via Elle Magazine 

Viard’s History with the Brand

Viard joined Chanel in 1987 as an haute couture embroidery intern where she steadily and with a lot of talent worked her way up within the brand. She developed a strong creative partnership with Karl Lagerfeld, working closely with him until his death in February 2019, when she succeeded him as creative director. Industry insiders have praised her for creating a feminine and wearable brand that stayed true to Chanel's heritage while incorporating her own vision. Under Viard leadership, Chanel maintained its momentum, both financially and creatively. According to Business of Fashion, the brand’s revenue rose by 16% in 2023 with their Ready to Wear sales growing by 23% under her leadership. 

Photo: Pascal Le Segretain via CNN Style

What was the Disconnect?

Chanel never stated the specific reason for Viard's departure, leaving many, including myself, to wonder why. Given her notable increase in revenue and high praise from Chanel’s higher-ups, what could have prompted her exit?

Many speculate that her exit could have been due to her design choices and consumers growing tired. In the beginning of her tenure, Viard brought a fresh take to the brand. She brought 80s feminine silhouettes and vibrant colors that brought life onto the runway. However, as time went on, her design choices became increasingly repetitive and boring. Her designs often played it safe, often lacking innovation and uniqueness. Viard was creating the same collection over and over again and it began to become stale.

Viard’s First Chanel Cruise Show in 2019 Photo: Olivier Saillant via AnOther Magazine

I can acknowledge that Chanel has its key signatures that make the brand what it is, but these signatures also were created to be designed in a variety of different and fresh ways. For instance, tweed is a versatile fabric that can be made in several colors, silhouettes, etc. I think that Chanel was beginning to see itself fall into the problem that affected them before Lagerfeld's tenure and it became an issue. It is no small feat that the brand’s profits grew under her. However, the brand has struggled to make unique clothing that does not benefit from brand recognition alone. It is clear from her more recent shows that the brand is due for some changes and needs to grow with the times. 

Photo: Anton Corbjin via Vogue Business

There is a stark difference between the buzz generated by Chanel’s shows in the past and the reposes gained at their most recent shows. Leaving many feeling that the latest collections left much to be desired. Despite the rise of revenue for the brand in 2023, they have seen a drop in spending in western markets and lowered demand in China in 2024. There is a clear disconnect between the brand and some of its consumers, especially younger ones that are beginning to have buying power. With the bland design choices, repeated price increases and/or lack of e-commerce for a lot of their products, I think that it is hard for consumers to fully support the brand and it is affecting them in the long run.   

Photo: Imaxtree via Fashion Week Daily 

What’s Next for Chanel?

Chanel has not yet released a statement as to who will replace her at the brand. Many people have predicted a number of popular designers within the fashion industry including Marc Jacobs and Tom Ford. This is one of the most prominent and high pressure positions in the fashion world. Whoever will replace Viard will have to have a new vision for the brand and prevent the brand from going down the path it is currently on. They will have to peak the interest of tired consumers while also keeping the current ones that are still interested. Until then, the industry eagerly awaits who they will choose for the spot.