Yuima Nakazato’s Ethereal, Kenyan Inspired Collection

Yuima Nakazato’s spring 2023 collection; a masterclass in fabric and draping that was created using textile waste collected on a trip to Kenya. This trip was also the inspiration for this collection, which is full of draped and wrapped pieces that draw reference to African garments as well as crafted ceramic jewelry evocative of tribal pieces. 

Each piece is more imaginative than the last in this collection, with many pieces that look like large, carefully draped swaths of fabric rather than sewed, stitched, and tailored pieces. The result is ethereal, artistic, and abstractly beautiful. 

Some looks were simple, consisting of asymmetrically draped black fabric that look like long togas or dresses, with some references to dress wear in the form of lapels or structured shoulders. But as the show went on, fabric became a larger presence; it tangled and wrapped, with ruffles, seams, and swirls, progressively engulfing models more and more, until the final look, which consisted of a colorful swarm of fabric that completely enveloped the model wearing it. 

Nakazato incorporated veils, pieces without sleeves, and carefully latticed fabrics into his looks, all of which called into question how we define clothing. The collection dances playfully between organic, imaginative shapes and structured workwear, like blazers, trousers and coats. These elements are combined in many instances, creating unique and transitive pieces. 

With the use of recycled Kenyan textiles in the creation of this collection, Nakazato also brings attention to climate change in a way that most haute couture shows do not. It brings to the forefront of our attention that the countries most affected by fashion and material waste are developing nations. 

Nakazato is cementing himself into the landscape of haute couture, bringing a whimsically unique imagination to the table.