#ArchiveFashion
Fashion is indisputably a reflection of everything that makes us humans. You’ll remember how in The Devil Wears Prada, if you haven’t seen it please stop reading and go watch it, Miranda explains the behind-the-scenes of fashion production. How the fashion industry is not a frivolous one but a consequence of the capitalists and industrialized societies we live in.
Courtesy of Vogue
Fashion informs.
Take any item of clothing and you can learn everything you need to know about society in the time it was created or worn. You’ll understand how people were industrializing products, the type of economic market they were dealing with, working class divisions and so much more.
Courtesy of Interview (check out the history oof jeans and white t-shirts)
In a few decades when people look back at our fashion choices a main theme will stand out; sustainability. How we ironically have been buying and demanding “eco-friendly ” clothes while consuming at a record high rate. This consciousness surrounding green-fashion has been around for a few years now but during the pandemic of 2020 saw a big rise. Second hand shopping, thrifting and buying locally became the new normal. Through Tik Tok’s viral influence people turned to DIY and even popularized the notion of archival-fashion shopping.
An archival piece is the ultimate fashion history go-to, they are true historical gems. Officially, archival fashion is any piece of clothing that belongs to a designer's portfolio. Even though some pieces do hold more historical value. When style is compromised by a fast fashion market, archival pieces bring the originality that is lacking. So, what qualifies as an archival piece? It is arbitrary and depends on how one categorizes value. Generally, the agreed upon elements of important archival pieces are those that transformed fashion, made a huge impact and are part of a designers collection from which contemporary designers draw inspiration. The most sought out brands are a conglomerate from the 90s and early 2000s. Including Helmut Lang, Heidi Slimane, Martin Margiela, Yogi Yamamoto, Issey Miyake, Versace etc.
Reese Whiterspoon in 1950 Balmain gown
Archival pieces, like this Raf Simons bomber jacket, hold historical significance as they are the embodiment of a designers legacy in a specific time and context. Kanye West wore this same jacket for a month straight, introducing one of history’s most influential designers to the youth.
Courtesy of Vogue
Talking about the youth, as every other trend lately, tik tok has solidify archival hunting #archivefashion. More and more influencers show their archival shopping hauls. Along with the budding fashion history fans, a large community in the app, where people share their knowledge on fashion masterpieces. Landon Annoni is one of the most influential content creators that specializes in archive fashion. He owns an impressive collection including Stevie Nicks tour chiffon blouse to Harry Styles’ Vogue cover blue dress.
“Part of the appeal of archive fashion on TikTok is that it’s educational. There aren’t very many platforms where you can hear people who buy unique fashion pieces talking about them casually and in such an open way — many of these people say how much they paid or how they found these pieces, embodying a transparency that was until recently unheard-of in the world of collecting.” Refinery29
Landon Annoni for Vogue
GQ has rounded some of fashion's most coveted archival pieces and we agree, we want them all.
Maison Margiela’s Square Toe Boots from the 00’s, the designers embodiment of his deconstructed and avant-garde designs.
Courtesy of Vogue
Helmut Lang’s Bondage Fishtail Parka from 1998 that represents the pragmatism he introduced to fashion as he brought street clothes onto the runway.
Courtesy of GQ
Jean Paul Gaultier Psych Girl Shirt from his 2000 spring collection.
Issey Miyake’s Parachute Cargo Bomber from 1996. Soon everyone would own a version of this jacket. Miyake gave life to this indestructible jacket in a pre-internet era, which means that many designs are not very well documented. Making his pieces even more rare and interesting. This jacket is not runway-documented but don’t worry, Robin Williams wore it in black for the premiere of Flubber in 1997.
Courtesy of I-D Magazine
Prada’s CrossBody Bag from the 90’s is probably one of the most influential accessories ever created. Miuccia’s creation of Prada Sport, a diffusion line of technical and sports apparel, would give birth to the future of “athleisure” and revolutionized how sport apparel and fabrics would be incorporated into runway collections.
Celebrities help emphasize the grandeur of such iconic pieces.
I mean, does it get better than Beyonce wearing a green and purple mini dress from Versace for her performance at the BET Awards? What about Zendaya wearing the same dress in a longer version for the same awards a few decades later, just wow.
But if we want to talk about iconic archival pieces it is hard to beat Gianni Versace’s safety pin black dress worn by Elizabeth Hurley in 1994. A dress that literally made every single head turn.
Courtesy of Harpers Bazaar
Bella Hadid is a fan of archival pieces and has debuted them on multiple occasions. She understands the significance this piece holds and the importance of recognizing its craftsmanship, she has worn archival Karl Lagarfeld designs and Jean paul Gaultier spring 2002, first worn by supermodel Naomi Campbell.
Bella Hadid in archive Chanel
Archival fashion isn’t clothing that’s meant to be used recklessly. Some items are so rare and valuable that one wouldn’t dare to wear outside, not to mention their price tag. But when celebrities “recycle” dresses on the red carpet their carbon footprint is strongly reduced compared to wearing a brand new couture gown. So through archival fashion, people can become more conscious about the importance of investing in pieces that will transcend time instead of buying carelessly from every upcoming trend.