Etro’s Romantic Modern Day 70s Vision

COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY

A poetic and clean offering reflecting the brand’s true identity, Etro’s newest menswear collection pays homage to textile culture - the leading groundwork built on the label. Marco De Vincenzo has officially stepped in as the Creative Director of the brand and produced his first menswear collection as head of the fashion house. Refreshed masculinity takes shape through a sentimental lens that acted as a love note. 

Connecting Etro’s history was pivotal for Vincenzo. He wanted to connect his past into the line, by bringing his small wool blanket from his childhood “brought with me, a lucky charm of sorts that gave me not only the inspiration for graphics and colors, but also the sentimental impulse to put my story alongside that of the Etro family.” (Vogue Runway)

That sense of coziness and eccentricity was to be maintained throughout each piece. Comforting lines, artsy domesticity, and the balance between romantic extravagance and supple refinement was portrayed in high end fabrics cut into soft and gentle shapes.  “Tailoring is always beautiful and important for the brand. Etro started [here], showing tartan which is one of the most important fabrics of Etro’s history,” explained De Vincenzo. “I study every day. Tailoring and masculinity is something that Etro has in its code.” Shirt coats, pajamas embroidered with florals and childhood prints, rounded shoulders, and duffels paraded in the massive textile warehouse in Como that was installed into the immersive set. Big, chunky sweaters hand knitted in imaginative patterns, tight-fitting jumpers crocheted in open-weave cashmere, roomy high-waisted flares and low denims were tailored to look sexy. 

Etro brings a welcomed departure from the current trend of exaggeration - exaggerated lines, silhouettes, colors, and styles. The new collection became impactful with swirling blends of light colors, sweaters, crochet, and three-dimensional knits, representing the 70s era. Just as important as the clothing pieces themselves, the accessories highlighted were usually tucked under the arm - embroidered vintage designs, rich leather tones, intricate retro graphics, and small hand-held pieces. 

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Fresh Faces of the SS23 Menswear

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JW Anderson’s Gender Subverting Collection