Fall 2022 Couture is Flourishing Thanks to These Two Designers
Couture is where the line between fashion and art blurs. The Fall 2022 Couture shows have not disappointed this season. Couture collections show the full range of a designer– their imagination, creativity, and talent. Two standout Fall 2022 collections–Iris Van Herpen and Rahul Mishra–were powerfully presented.
COURTESY OF IRIS VAN HERPEN
Iris Van Herpen is the designer of the future, and with her latest collection marking her 15th anniversary, she shows that she continues to move forward to the future. She has been implementing the use of technology in her work for a long time. In 2009, she played around with 3D printed clothing, and now, rather than sketching on paper, her designs typically start out as computer models. This makes her uniquely ready for the metaverse–all her designs are ready for the future of fashion. At a preview she described her new collection as “future-oriented, inspired by post-humanism, by transforming identities, the metaverse, but also hyperreality, where digital reality and physical reality are becoming indistinguishable.” While Van Herpen is focused on the future, she drew inspiration from long ago in the past. The poems of Ovid’s Metamorphoses inspired her 19 looks, 3 of which are digital. Van Herpen is an ideal example of how fashion extends beyond the fabric.
The collection is simply ethereal. The complex structures and textures combine to form works of art. It’s almost a skeletal inspired fairy collection–magical, futuristic, yet also human. Her designs are abstract and rigid, but also have a softness about them with the silky and tulle fabrics. A couple looks from the collection even include abstract human faces–which humanizes the future. The Dutch designer is the present and the future of couture fashion.
COURTESY OF VOGUE
Rahul Mishra, the only Indian designer of the inner sanctum of French couture, had a much more natural and rooted collection titled The Tree of Life. Mishra drew inspiration from a banyan tree located at his ancestral home which was taken care of by his grandmother. The collection represents the deep roots and strength that a powerful old tree has. Mishra also demonstrated the beauty of the interaction between the leaves and sunlight through shimmering gold hues. Trees can be magnificent, bold, and abundant, and to achieve the fullness and body of the designs, they studied how large stuffed toys were made. What makes Rahul Mishra truly unique is his dedication to working with Indian artisans and supporting the long history of craft tradition of his home country. He works with skilled artisans and embroiderers, and because of his label’s support, he is helping improve the economic conditions of individuals in those communities. Mishra uses his designs to create art and to uplift others.
Mishra’s collection is jaw-droppingly gorgeous. The glittering gold and vibrant colors transport you into the mind and culture of the designer. The collection brings to life small animals, flourishing poppies, and shimmering leaves. The talented work of Mishra and his artisans shines through in all the looks. I have to say that Rahul Mishra has become one of my favorite couture designers after his latest collection. He turns meaningful life experiences into inspiration that allows him to envision beautiful and majestic designs. Just looking at The Tree of Life collection fills you with wonder and makes you feel like anything is possible.
The Fall 2022 Haute Couture season has been filled with so many amazing collections from different designers. Iris Van Herpen and Rahul Mishra were two of my favorites from this season, and both make me excited for the future of fashion.