Less is More at Loewe FW23; as in More Complex

Minimalism, reductionist aesthetic, recession core or anti-maximalism is this fashion month’s main act. Collection after collection that feels like a lesson on how to build the perfect capsule wardrobe. 

Guided by the philosophy that less is more, which wasn’t all that true for Loewe. 

Courtesy of Hypebeast

Prioritizing the essentials highlighted by clean lines and monochromatic palettes makes minimalism seem simple, but like always, the devils on the details. In this case the complexity of design is in the material and silhouettes designed by Anderson, Loewe’s creative director. A collection inspired greatly by art, more specifically on the symbolism behind Renaissance art represented through contemporary images and textiles such as velvet or wool. A combination that made this collection the master of all reductionist design proposals. 

Loewe didn’t just create essential pieces, they rather turned to their surrealist roots and literally beat up copper into the most stunning pieces of wearable art. Perfectly fitted to the models bodies as every sculpted curve reflected the glomming lights of the architectural masterpieces. 

The key to appreciating the apparent simplicity of the collection is to look at the shapes. Garments that represent an incredible craftsmanship work and appreciation in the form of bell-sleeved faux fur jackets, padded wool coats, structural double breasted, floor-length coats and rigid wrinkled back-fastened shirts. 

The bulbous silhouettes that were both eye-catching and brilliant, representing the best of Loewe’s house. Silhouettes accompanied by textiles that even through photography completely popped out. 

So there is a surrealist element, the structured silhouettes which offer no movement, tailoring, avant-garde compositions (hand hanging at the base of a neck plunging tunic) and the brilliance of textile experimentation. A not so basic reduction, although pants were in fact cut from the equation. What wasn’t missing was Loewe’s signature leather, which was stacked on top of each other

A love story told through textiles and silhouettes, immortalized in larger than life digital illustrations that hung at the show’s Paris venue. In collaboration with contemporary artist Nguyen who created images depicting Loewe’s muse, Nikos. 

Courtesy of Vogue

Loewe fw23 was a modern day surrealist take on minimalism backed by an impressive lineup of iridescent and structural jackets made by sculptor Elie Hirsch. Where, once again, the complexity of the design process makes simplicity worthy of admiration.