The Yen and Plush Menswear Collection of Giorgio Armani

COURTESY OF VOGUE RUNWAY

Milan’s 88-year-old master menswear architect Giorgio Amrani came out with a brilliant collection, where tradition meets sports-diffusion. Each piece is crafted with technical materials and forms, crinkled with irregular lines. Delivering a pleasant yet confident collection, Armani stepped in this season’s need for soft and comforting clothes. Classically handsome models tread silently across the gleaming set of marble to the gentle music and the dignity of neutral and tailored clothes. 

This collection took subtle inspiration from the architecture of Milan - narrow paneling in leather bags, lightly padded jackets, mixed-material sweatshirts and jackets that reflected the geometric grindings and zigzags of Milan’s busy streets. Richly textured gray wools, velvets, and cashmeres used in the opening were taken from carved gray stone doorways. This contemporary version goes back to the conception of the mid-70s.

From business to casual, evening to day, every look went back to the tailored and architectural designs. Collars in velvets with cuffed pants cut to taper above velvet sneakers in black or burgundy, to blue-accented suits worn against a gray zip-up jacket. Dress trousers shaped like sweatpants came in thick fabrics zipped over rubber-soled Chelsea boots. Shearlings, pea coats, and dinner jackets were all fitted with finely cut fabrics, and the animal-print parkas in faux fur are considered wild by Armani standards.

Billboards for Neve, the designer’s newish skiwear brand, are plastered all over Milan and Giorgio Armani included a segment of heavily quilted gear for winter expeditions. The show ended with five male-and-female model couples clustered at the end of the runway, as if meeting by chance on the way up to a party. They passed through in black velvet suits and crystal accented evening wear. Post-show conference, Armani explained: “Transgression and modernity are perfectly fine, but I liked the idea of seeing once again a cute couple together.” 

Billboards for Neve

Closing Couples