London Fashion Week ‘24: Top 5 Runway Shows
London Fashion Week ‘24: Top 5 Young Brands Runway Shows
Up and coming designers are not given any kind of special treatment, in fact, more often than not, some are just waiting for them to falter. However, this edition of LFW hankfully reaffirmed the standing of some of our favorite young brands; without any tripping over. Every season a distinctive theme lingers over, this time around, I would deem it as; authenticity. From Japanese bandages, to bugs and couture extravaganza, if LFW ´24 was a movie it would undoubtedly be described somewhere along the lines of “it feels like a move” -Harry Styles. Meaning, after a few seasons, we can say we got to truly feel the fashion.
London Fashion Week ‘24: Next Stop, Reality.
Fashion is without a doubt a form of art, and we can't help but relish in its ability to transport us to realms we could only imagine, but sometimes it takes us straight back to reality. More specifically, to our early morning commute. This time around, SRVC didn't let us escape reality and showgoers faced the “beauty” of London´s double-deckers. Why, you might ask? Reality is in, apparently. If LFW '24 was a movie, then reality is Dolly Parton’s “9-5” which was the beat models paced down the bus along the sound of jewelry clashing into the metal poles, adding to the oh-so-real experience of working life.
Photo via @srvcstudio
SRVC, a young brand founded in 2021, was established under the sole purpose of designing with a hyper futuristic edge all while remaining attuned to the needs of modern women. It's not an everyday thing that designers allow space for users to have the opportunity to self style pieces.
The muted back tones of the collection clashed perfectly and almost ironically with London’s red bus seats. What could be more “I am ready to commute '' than boxy proportions, cut outs, leather trenches, knitted skirts and provocative thigh slips?
London Fashion Week ‘24: Paper Dolls Loose at the Museum!
From reality to fantasy. As we step out of the double-decker bus Harris Reed opens the door of his innermost sacred memories; paper dolls!
Photo via WWD
Set on The Tate Britain, ten looks crafted over the stretch of 5 months drifted around the museum's halls talking about art coming to life. A once-in-a-lifetime, night at the museum experience, one thing was certain; casual is not in. Harris Reed reassured his stance as a couturier that won't accommodate trends, crafting theatrics and fantasies is his due. According to Reed’s notes, inspiration was found in the 19TH century shadow puppets and illustrations, which also inspired his magazine cut outs and paper dolls from when he was a child.
Sculptural shapes, boldness, feathers, artistry; an unapologetic spectacle.
London Fashion Week ‘24: All Things Salty, Pornographic and Dirty.
Couture, the highest form of fashion, has its own sensual appeal but if we want to talk about sex-appeal we should look no further than Chet Lo’s spiky-popcorn mesh. Leaving into their racier side, Lo explored the seductiveness and the history of Asia. Japanes bondages? check. Terracotta Army? check.
Photo via @chet_lo
Remember the Chinese army that was buried underneath the earth and discovered in the late 70s? Well, Lo found its main inspiration in them, not just in its outstanding history but rather in its “beautification process”. After hundreds of years oxidation, fire and dehydration are set to happen, turning a once colorful army into faded earthy hues. A symbol of resilience. A collection that reflects on resilience, putting on an armor to face the world, its bullies. Seductive prints paid homage to ancient Chinese erotic art while intricate ropes inspired by Shibari bondage gracefully layered dresses.
An undeniably sexy collection.
London Fashion Week ‘24: Space Age, Again?
Staying over the futuristic side lines, Natasha Zinko presented its “relevant” take on modern space age fashion. A peek through the “AI” looking glass?
“Last season, I looked down to the ground, and this season, I am looking up at the sky,”
A collection inspired by a theme some might consider worn-out: Space Odyssey by S
Kubrick. A cinematic classic that reflects on humanity and the exploration of space, a collective yearning that transcended our cosmos. Natasha Zinko’s added a unique twist by reimagining flight attendants uniforms, most notably in the little mini pastel pink dress reminiscent of those Pan Am iconic uniforms.
As lights dim on the runway, signaling the arrival of outer life, we are transported to another galaxy, light-years away from our mundane reality. The destination? A runway masterfully crafted with puffed out sleeves, round-shouldered jackets resembling straitjackets, wax-like head caps, sheer fabrics, bodysuits with padding on the waist and what I imagine a 1960’s track uniform would look like.
London Fashion Week ‘24: Fashion within Mythology
Ahluwalia, founded in 2018, serves as the perfect inbetween; an intersection between near and far, past and present. Rooted in the designers Indian-Nigerian heritage and London roots, brings sustainability to the runways. Utilizing the potential of vintage and surplus clothing by giving them a second life, meaning that a lot of their pieces are truly one of a kind.
Like Reed, Priya looked back into her childhood, bringing to life the fables she heard at night. Exploring Nigerian mythology and its motifs, all from the supernatural to the mystical energy. Bold prints, asymmetric cuts, hooded dresses, pops of color all screamed “mix-and-match perfection”.