Gimmicks, Discourses & Trash During Milan Fashion Week 24’.
We know Milan Fashion Week is host to the most historic fashion houses - Prada, Versace, Gucci - however, it is the year 2024, the era of social media where up-and-comers are a part of the conversations more than ever before.
AVAVAV & SUNNEI: Gimmicks & Trash Take Over Milan Fashion Week 24’.
Stop number three on the fashion calendar and it is a star-studded sighting frenzy. Besides celebrities, online discourses seem to be the hottest topic during fashion week. Everyone has an opinion, everyone loves to share their opinion and that is exactly what is happening. Karlsson, AVAVAV’s creative director, knows this all too well, “with great exposure comes great attention”.
Exposure that includes negative opinions, online haters and trolls are nothing new and one could even say they are part of the whole “there is no such thing as bad press” parabole. Owning the hateful narrative received by the fashion house AVAVAV took control of the social discourses online and took them into the runway. As showgoers started to arrive they were handed gloves and a pile of trash - banana peels, water bottles, coffee cups - to be thrown at the models. A gimmick that, surprise surprise, was received with lots of controversy and a huge online discourse. It seems that controversy and spectacle are the order of the day.
Courtesy of Avavav
Another brand, another gimmick. At this point let's call it what it is, a show concept not a runway and SUNNEI knows how to deliver a concept better than most. Ever wonder what a model thinks of as she/he struts down the runway? Wonder no more, SUNNEI let models speak for themselves, their inner dialogues were blasted through speakers; ““The world is on fire and we’re talking about fashion?”. Loud thoughts, loud truths. If the inner monologues blasted through the venue were not compelling enough, the thick, multi-color carpet would also do it. A perfect colorful contrast to the feel of the collection; large mohair hats, soft dresses, oversized scarves. Stripes set the mood for the cool, monochrome looks.
DEL CORE & Tokyo James: Layers, Insects & Unconventional Heritage During Milan Fashion Week 24’.
Some own the discourses, others craft one out. For Daniel Del Core it's all about nature, more specifically; how to channel his love for nature into his designs? The conundrum: what would a bug wear?
An exploration into his own naturistic discourse, one that focuses on translating and paying tribute to nature's spectacular specimens; fungi, lichens, microorganisms. A not so easy job but one that can absolutely be managed by someone who has sharpened his skills under Alessandro Michele at Gucci, where flamboyance and extravagance are the main topics to be taught. Since 2020, classical beauty, shapes and tailoring has been met by glamor, architecture and modularity. exploring the shoes left behind by the transformations bestowed by the life cycles of butterflies and bees. Small creatures, great beauty. A collection that showcases a gradual unveiling of what is inside of us, all the layers that protect us start to fade.
Fashion’s long standing discourse has always been centered around stereotypes. From beauty standards to the models that walk the runways and the designers themselves. Stereotypes heavily backed by expectations that have been tackled down, surely not without a fight. Tokyo James dedicated their latest show to address the expectations set by western societies and their pre-established notion of what African designs should look like.
Honoring their roots by giving themselves the task of making sure no one forgets the talent that more-often-than-not goes unnoticed. Talent inherent to the African continent that showcases the richness and diversity of their culture and heritage. So forget what you might envision about African designs and take in Tokyo James’ fusion of modern and traf¡ditional influences mixed with vibrant and artistic motifs true to Africa. An important conversation that brings talent, heritage and craftsmanship to the forefront.