Business Casual at PFW 24’
Leave it to Paris to close out this season culminating in show-stopping runways with Nicholas Ghesquière’s Louis Vuitton’s 10 year celebration, to the Row’s “no phone” controversy along with 108 other shows and presentations. Fashion was not lacking and, like any other season, the dream to become unforgettable was palpable. Fashion month sets the rest of the year's trends; from brilliantly configured clothes, to sensitive sexuality, phenomenal tailoring, nostalgia for past eras and stories that tell us how the “new modern women” should dress or that shock factor we all go crazy for. Surprisingly the shock factor this season landed on the analysis and coherent representation of the everyday attire.
Courtesy of @undercover_lab
PFW 24’: Business Casual Is In
Jun Takahashi found himself amongst every editor's notes, his sensitivity and consciousness about everyday life and the beauty that lies in the ritual, in having a place we call home. Takahashi leaned deep into his inspiration - the everyday - and collaborated with Wim Wenders, a film director who is no stranger to telling stories about “the now”, the beauty of what we have, not what we lack.
Undercover’s everyday attire consisted of chiffon, bonding tinsel, tank tops, worn jeans, ribbed hems, oversized jerseys over sequined skirts, patchwork and layers. Apparently the everyday look of a woman is miles away from body hugging pieces and comfort is a priority. Unlike other runway narratives, Undercover took us to a journey that was uncontrolled. No control over structure yet every piece seemed to align to a perfectly tailored complex.
From tinsel to yin and yang. Peter Do has cemented himself as a designer known for his impeccable tailoring and his ability to craft excitement in the minimalistic. Black, white and beige all over. Shirts turned into tunics, pleats gave way to flow and cuffs turned into their own accesory. A grown up wardrobe with great pants! Ambición on the collection came in the form of slits on the front of pants, silk twill lining and my favorite, the bold lashes and flashes of red chiffon.
Declarations of Femininity: The Everyday Attire in PFW ‘24
Landing back on the theme of “the everyday” Peter Do collaborated with the business casual fast fashion queen; Banana Republic. Pieces that will actually be available to the general public like the trench coat with removable collar, chunky ribbed sweaters and of course some pants. A casual attire, yet, far from being anything casual.
Young French design house, Gauchere, founded in 2013 by Marie-Christine Statz under the declaration of modern femininity. Intentional minimalist embracing formal and casual influences with a focus on versatility. All which were noticeable in her FW 24’ collection, where casual dress became a nod to the softness and hardness of our character.
There were boxy tailored blazers, strong suiting, ample jackets, vegan leather coats, body hugging knitwear and column like panel structures all in muted tones. Looks built by layering basic pieces that found relevancy in its textures, color contrasts and structure.
PFW 2024 or PFW 3000?
In 2024 there is no business that does not include some form of AI or technology. We are all beginning to step into a world where we will coexist with it, where humans’ self awareness, creativity and imagination might be replaced? Real conversations about real fear, ANNAKIKI used this and presented us with 50 futuristic looks presented on a digital runway format. the future of fashion? One thought we had adapted forever as COVID 19 hit and all protocols changed. This time around Annakiki explored these fusions, reality and virtuality, using photography and AI technology as the creative concept.
Can AI really replace the creativity of designers? What are its limitations? This season Annakiki focused on armors, 3-d designs and removable armaments. A complex collection designed with the help of AI, as the designer notes indicate AI generated abstract forms later made into concrete ones and the use of leather and cord-binding techniques used to transform AI designed armor into reality. Mind blowing to say the least. Still, for me, human creativity and its need to tell our stories will never be matched.