London Fashion Week: Who’s Turning Green into the Gold Standard?
London Fashion Week marked its 40th anniversary in September 2024, a milestone that should have felt like a victory lap. Instead, it served as a reminder that the industry is at a crossroads. The British Fashion Council (BFC) has officially adopted Copenhagen Fashion Week’s sustainability standards, a move signaling stronger commitments to environmental responsibility. But as I sat on Zoom with my editor, one question kept resurfacing: Does this actually mean change?
Sustainability has become the industry’s favorite buzzword—slapped onto collections, woven into press releases, and marketed as innovation—yet true transparency remains murky at best. There are no universal benchmarks, no regulated tracking, and for many brands, no fundamental changes to their production models. “Sustainability isn’t a trend,” I said. “It’s a necessity—both for the environment and for the consumer.” The State of Fashion 2024 Report backs this up, stating that three out of five consumers now consider a brand’s environmental impact before making a purchase, with transparency becoming a critical factor in brand loyalty. Yet, while many brands capitalize on the growing demand for sustainability, only a handful have embedded it into their DNA rather than just greenwashing.
via Vogue by Phil Oh
Designers at London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025 noticeably toned down their runways —fewer elaborate set designs equates to less unnecessary waste. But was this a conscious sustainability move or simply a cost-cutting measure disguised as an eco-conscious shift? Either way, less waste is still less waste.
Meanwhile, conversations are intensifying about whether London Fashion Week should move to a once-a-year format. Some argue this could slow down production and limit overconsumption, but forcing a singular schedule could limit creativity, disrupt supply chains, and overload manufacturers with massive, single-cycle production runs that worsen working conditions. The industry doesn’t need a mandated slowdown—it needs smarter solutions. Many brands are already adjusting their own pace, opting to showcase when it makes the most sense for their material-to-market workflow.
Brands aren’t just rethinking when they show—they’re reimagining how. With runway costs skyrocketing (some now exceeding £200,000), designers are adopting more cost-effective, immersive strategies that extend beyond tradtion. Some are embracing digital showcases, AI-driven marketing, and data-led business moves, reallocating budgets toward virtual lookbooks, showroom appointments, and even Metaverse Fashion Week—though skepticism lingers over consumer adoption of Web3 fashion.
via Paolo Caraza
Others are turning to experience-based marketing, where intimate gatherings replace elaborate collection debuts. Private dinners, where models seamlessly integrate designer creations into real-world settings, are fostering deeper emotional connections between brands and their audiences. This shift isn’t just about aesthetics or exclusivity—it’s a response to fashion’s economic reality and changing consumer behavior.
One thing is clear: fashion is evolving beyond the runway. Brands are no longer just selling clothes; they’re crafting narratives, proving what the State of Fashion Report continues to emphasize—consumers crave connection, personalization, and purpose over seasonal trend cycles.
At the center of these conversations is the British Fashion Council, which has officially set January 2026 as the deadline for its Newgen incubation scheme to meet its first wave of sustainability requirements. These include a formal Environment, Social, Governance (ESG) strategy, diversity and inclusion benchmarks, the use of preferred sustainable materials, and the elimination of single-use show props.
While this is a step toward progress, the question remains: will these standards be enforced, or will brands continue to operate under the illusion of sustainability with little consequence?
At the start of our conversation, my editor asked, “Who’s actually doing the work?”
Join me and let’s dive into the designers proving that green is the new gold.
Paolo Carzana: A Designer Who Lives and Breathes Sustainability
Welsh designer Paolo Carzana isn’t just committed to sustainability—it defines his entire creative philosophy. A Central Saint Martins graduate, Carzana takes an artisanal, deeply personal approach to fashion, rejecting mass production in favor of handcrafted, small-batch garments made from plant-based, organic, and recycled materials. His meticulous dyeing techniques use natural pigments, ensuring that every piece carries a unique, lived-in patina.
For London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025, Carzana presented "Dragons Unwinged at the Butcher’s Block" in an intimate setting at The Holy Tavern in Clerkenwell, reinforcing the collection’s mythical, otherworldly atmosphere. Deconstructed vests, flowing blue-dyed button-downs, and sculptural dresses exemplified his craftmanship, while ethereal layering added an emotional weight to the collection. Each look was dyed, draped, and constructed entirely by hand, a testament to Carzana’s refusal to compromise on sustainability or artistry.
Beyond his aesthetic vision, Carzana’s commitment to ethical production sets him apart. Instead of relying on high-volume manufacturing, he prioritizes slow, thoughtful design, ensuring that every piece is meant to last. His work is supported by the Sarabande Foundation, founded by Lee Alexander McQueen, which provides a platform for emerging designers who challenge industry norms.
While many brands lean on sustainability as a selling point, Carzana’s approach is the real deal—sustainability as a lifestyle, not a marketing tool.
via Hypebeast
Edeline Lee: Precision, Sustainability, and Thoughtful Design
Edeline Lee has built her brand on precision, timeless craftsmanship, and responsible production. Known for her sculptural silhouettes and meticulously tailored pieces, Lee’s philosophy goes beyond using sustainable materials—she’s reshaping how clothes are designed, manufactured, and valued.
via Edeline Lee
For London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025, she once again rejected the spectacle of traditional runways, opting for an intimate, controlled setting that highlighted the details of each piece. Her structured-yet-fluid garments exuded architectural elegance, designed to elevate beyond trends and encourage long-term wear.
Lee’s commitment to ethical manufacturing is evident in her small-batch, London-based production. By keeping her supply chain local, she ensures quality precision and ethical working conditions, avoiding the outsourcing pitfalls of fast fashion.
Beyond production, Lee actively promotes inclusivity in fashion. Her collections celebrate diversity, featuring models of different generations and backgrounds—an authentic, thoughtful representation rather than performative industry showmanship.
Her approach isn’t about chasing sustainability trends—it’s about redefining luxury through longevity, responsibility, and inclusivity.
via The Glass Magazine
Patrick McDowell: Rewriting the Rules of Sustainable Luxury
Patrick McDowell is proving that bespoke clothing and sustainability aren’t mutually exclusive—they’re the future. Operating on a made-to-order model, McDowell eliminates waste at the source, ensuring that every piece is intentional, precise, and built to last. His collections are crafted from reclaimed fabrics, organic yarns, and responsibly sourced materials, challenging the traditional excess of high fashion.
via Patrick McDowell
For London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025, McDowell introduced a capsule collection featuring garments dyed with eco-friendly bio-indigo, developed in partnership with biotech company Huue. This innovative use of low-impact dyeing technology wasn’t just a statement—it was a strategic step toward fashion’s next evolution.
Beyond materials, McDowell champions inclusivity and diversity. His casting is unapologetically representative, and his designs break gendered fashion norms, creating a space where everyone feels seen.
Unlike many luxury brands still clinging to outdated business models, McDowell is proving that the future of high fashion is circular, local, and inclusive.
via Forbes, Marie Claire UK, Brick Magazine
Phoebe English: Crafting a Circular Fashion Narrative
Phoebe English is pioneering circular fashion, ensuring that every stage of production is mindful, ethical, and waste-conscious. She has built a fully closed-loop studio model, operating from a single South London space where garments are designed, sewn, and repurposed—cutting out the environmental costs of overseas production.
For London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025, Joy + Sorrow, English reinforced her zero-waste mission, presenting a collection crafted exclusively from pre-consumer textile waste. In a six-month trial, her studio repurposed 53 kilograms of discarded fabric into 255 new pieces—an extraordinary demonstration of how circular fashion can be both commercially viable and environmentally responsible.
English’s natural dyeing process is equally innovative. By composting fabric scraps to fertilize dye plants, she’s created a self-sustaining cycle that eliminates synthetic chemicals while nourishing the soil.
With a philosophy rooted in longevity and intentional design, English rejects the fast-paced trend cycle in favor of versatile, seasonless pieces that stand the test of time. Her work isn’t just about reducing impact—it’s about rebuilding fashion’s relationship with the planet.
via Phoebe English
Fanfare Label: Turning Waste Into Wearable Statements
Fanfare Label, founded by Esther Knight in 2019, is proving that fashion waste doesn’t have to be a given—it’s an opportunity. A former fast fashion insider, Knight left the industry to build a brand that challenges its most damaging practices.
For London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025, Fanfare Label doubled down on circularity, presenting a collection made from upcycled garments and repurposed textiles. Unlike brands that claim sustainability while continuing high-volume production, Fanfare operates on a zero-waste model, prioritizing longevity and reusability over seasonal excess.
One of the label’s most forward-thinking initiatives is its “Design Your Own Jean” service at Liberty London, allowing customers to personalize denim instead of buying mass-produced styles. This hands-on model shifts fashion from disposable to deeply personal, encouraging mindful purchasing.
With recognition from the Marie Claire UK Sustainability Awards 2024, Fanfare Label is setting a new standard for how brands can merge ethical production with commercial success.
via Fanfare Label, London Fashion Week
E.L.V. Denim: Reinventing Denim, One Pre-Loved Pair at a Time
E.L.V. Denim, founded by Anna Foster in 2018, has a simple but radical approach: denim doesn’t need to be newly made.
For London Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2025, E.L.V. Denim reinforced its zero-waste commitment, presenting jeans constructed entirely from discarded denim, hand-selected from UK warehouses. Instead of the 10,000 liters of water required for a single pair of conventionally produced jeans, E.L.V. Denim’s process uses just seven liters per pair—a game-changing reduction in water consumption.
Beyond crafting new denim from old, the brand is closing the loop with its take-back program in partnership with Reskinned. Customers can return old jeans for recycling or upcycling, earning discounts in the process—an initiative that keeps garments out of landfills while reinforcing circularity.
With partnerships with major retailers and designers like Gabriela Hearst, E.L.V. Denim is proving that luxury denim and sustainability are no longer separate conversations—they’re one and the same.
via 5eleven Magazine
Fashion’s Reality Check
Fashion is evolving, whether by choice or necessity. Sustainability, technology, and business innovation are no longer optional—they are survival strategies. Some brands are genuinely restructuring their models to align with the future of fashion, while others are making just enough changes to stay relevant.
Once again I ask: “Who is actually doing the work?”
We dove into the sustainability efforts of various brands but independent evaluations provide a necessary reality check. Good On You, a platform that assesses brands based on their environmental impact, labor conditions, and animal welfare, offers insight into who’s leading and who still has gaps to fill.
E.L.V. Denim – Rated "Great", recognized for its 100% upcycled denim, low-impact materials, and commitment to ethical labor practices. The brand ensures living wages in its final production stage and minimizes waste by reusing textile offcuts.
Fanfare Label – Rated “Good” for its slow fashion model and eco-friendly materials, but lacks full assurance of living wages across its supply chain.
Phoebe English – Rated “Good” for its low-impact materials and made-to-order model, though there’s no formal Code of Conduct or transparency in worker wages.
Patrick McDowell – Rated “Good” for its circular fashion model and local production, yet there’s no public evidence of living wages or supply chain audits.
Edeline Lee – Rated “Good”, using some sustainable materials and made-to-order processes, but with undefined wage policies and no formal animal welfare policy.
Paolo Carzana – Not rated by Good On You, raising an important question: why are some of the most radical sustainability-focused designers not even on the radar of rating platforms?
These assessments highlight an important truth: even brands at the forefront still have work to do. Sustainability isn’t a milestone—it’s an ongoing process. Industry reports act as checks and balances, holding brands accountable and pushing them to refine their practices, close loopholes, and prioritize real change.
But the most powerful force behind fashion’s future isn’t brands—it’s consumers. Our expectations dictate what brands prioritize next. The designers who embrace meaningful transformation will lead, while those who rely on performative sustainability will fade into irrelevance.
Sustainability isn’t just about what brands claim to be doing now—it’s about what they’re willing to do next.