No One Does Denim like Diesel
Sexy, pop, glitter, galactic. Diesel has officially catapulted into the stratosphere with its collection directed by Glenn Martens. Models paraded down the red carpet set with gigantic, blown up structures of seductively posed women, covered in micro mini skirts, low slung jeans, slinky metallic separates, distressed leathers, faux fur coats, and tech sneakers with straps. Once a Y2K phenomenon, twenty years later, Diesel is making an impressive comeback with the new Glenn Martens as the creative director.
Glenn Martens has catapulted Diesel into an unforgettable comeback and as the show debuted, Martens transformed grungy, everyday denim into something elevated. Hand-shredded denim, cropped keyhole tops fitted with oversized jean belts, and floor-length denim trench coats. As for other standout looks, the lineup also consisted of metallic miniskirts paired with printed cardigans, tiny fitted tops, and matching gloves with bonded-jersey jeans. Martens wanted this collection to provide sustainability and to showcase Rehab denim - a result of leftover denim rewoven in new fabrics - and deployed many upcycled and deadstock textiles throughout the lineup. “The power of Diesel is that we talk to so many people, we can push sustainability and innovation and we can push experimentation and concept. It's pure Diesel - you need to put it on in two seconds and live your life,” Martens says in an interview with Harper's Bazaar.
Originally from Bruges, Belgium, Martens stumbled upon fashion by accident. After university, Martens was offered a role at Jean Paul Gulatier as a junior designer for the women’s pre-collection and his menswear label G2. In 2012, he started his eponymous label, which made its debut at Paris Fashion Week and ran for three seasons. Martens had been working as first assistant to Y/Project creative director and founder Yohan Serfaty and after his passing, Martens took the helm of the label. In a few seasons, the label turned into a brand worn by celebrities and influencers. Martens then joined Diesel and remains the helm of Y/Project while working with Diesel. Not only has he established himself as the breakout designer of the year, he also put out two of the most recent show seasons’ most memorable collections: Y/Project and Jean Paul Gaultier, authoring his first-ever haute couture collection. With Diesla, Martens states in an interview with Vogue Runway, “We're never going to be luxury, and we're not claiming to be luxury. We’re the alternative to it.”
For this year’s show, Glenn Martens approached a different creative aspect, and with the help of Niklas Bildstein Zaar, the venue transformed into a space galaxy UFO dream, with 69 looks modeled by various faces. Ella Snyder, an influential trans model who was the face of the Diesel Library Campaign as well as one of the models for the 2022 show, can be seen in bright red hair and glittery, bright red body paint all over. Liza Han, another model from Kazakhstan, starred in the Diesel show, showing off a tiny, fitted denim top with sluggish, distressed denim. Glenn chose to highlight up and coming models, such as Luca Luci, Yoonmi Sun, and Qun Ye, who was on the cover of Vogue Thailand and present in many shows throughout PFW and MFW.
With the Fall 2022 Diesel show, Glenn Martens has set the bar incredibly high and put out an incredible show, with show-stopping looks, and eclectic venue that will be talked about for years and years to come. Once an early 2000s phenomenon with low rise stitched jeans, Diesel’s 2022 comeback will be one to remember.