NYFW Fall/Winter 2025: Standing in Power, Dressed for the Future

This season at New York Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025, the runway reflected the evolving role of femininity in society. Women are reclaiming power while embracing softness and fluidity on their own terms. Self-expression in 2025 isn’t about choosing between strength and sensuality—it’s about embodying both. Fashion is proving that duality is the new standard, blending rebellion with romance and tradition with transformation. As designers push boundaries, one thing is clear: fashion is a weapon, an armor, and a love letter—all at once.

via Contessa Mills

Gabe Gordon – "Rubber Boyfriend"

Gabe Gordon’s Rubber Boyfriend takes neutralism and elevated sportswear to a new level, blending avant-garde tailoring with deep personal storytelling. A skilled weaver, Gordon turned to knitting as a form of therapy after his father’s passing, infusing his designs with a raw, intimate quality.

The collection plays out like an 80s teen drama—a girls’ dance team kidnaps a cheating wrestler and turns him into a fetishized “rubber boyfriend”. This narrative materializes in gender-bending silhouettes, wrestling singlet-inspired cuts, butter-yellow satin shorts, and plastic lip details evocative of a sex doll. 50s influences emerge through the presence of a dance coach living vicariously through her students, adding a layer of control and spectacle.

Gordon’s color palette—cream, maroon, gunmetal, and soft blue—balances casual cool with sharp structure, co-existing knit garments. Collaborating with his boyfriend, Timothy Gibbons, Gordon brings texture and movement to the collection through fringe, alpaca trims, and burnt taffeta. The collection leaves space for interpretation, proving that fashion can be both deeply personal and a cheeky, cultural commentary on power dynamics.

via @firstviewphoto/Gabe Gordon

Kim Mesches – "Collection 6"

Kim Mesches’ Collection 6 is a study in contrast, balancing softness and strength, delicacy and resilience. The collection transforms wearable art into a commentary on modern femininity, showcasing patina-ed copper that appears painted onto the body and heat-activated silicone that creates a striking wet-look effect.

Metallics blend with earthy tones, reinforcing the idea that women are both forces of nature and sculpted masterpieces. Hand-knit details add warmth and craftsmanship, seamlessly integrating into the collection’s mix of textures. Mesches experiments with fabric manipulation in ways that push the boundaries of traditional tailoring.

Each piece feels suspended in time—simultaneously futuristic yet rooted in something deeply personal. This collection isn’t just about aesthetics; it’s a reminder that women are both admired and respected, seen and honored. Collection 6 proves that fashion can be both art and armor, offering strength in every stitch.

via Hype Bae/Kim Mesches

Contessa Mills – "Magician 2.0"

Contessa Mills delivers a sexy, playful take on mysticism with Magician 2.0, a collection that celebrates the power and allure of being a woman. The lineup features fitted lace and satin two-piece sets, sleek capri pants, and subtly seductive silhouettes, all in a neutral palette of black, white, and cream.

Inspired by the modern ladies of New York, Mills balances feminine confidence with an air of mystery, creating looks that feel both effortless and intentional. The collection embraces sensuality and empowerment, proving that strength isn’t about being rigid—it’s about owning softness, too. The runway styling enhanced this vision, with voluminous 50s-inspired curls that coincided with her reimagined 50s-style lingerie sets, paired with intensely smoky black eyes for added drama.

While Magician 2.0 leans into sultry glamour, Mills has hinted at a future exploration of astrology and crystals. Based on this season’s collection, I predict her next direction will incorporate crystal-inspired colors and silhouettes reminiscent of constellations. With Magician 2.0, Mills reminds us that fashion can be both magnetic and magical—just like the women who wear it.

via Fashion Network/Contessa Mills

Allina Liu – “A Love Child Between Couture and Seduction”

Allina Liu’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection is a dreamy fusion of romance and edge, balancing delicate allure with quiet sensuality. Inspired by horror, shibari, and Dutch Old Masters, her pieces embody intricate craftsmanship with a modern coquette aesthetic. The collection’s palette—pink, maroon, moss green, and black—offers versatility, appealing to both those who embrace tenderness and those who prefer a more rebellious edge. Gingham, sheer fabrics, and florals dominate, seamlessly blending soft and structured elements.

Liu’s commercial background at The Row, Thakoon, Rebecca Taylor, and J.Crew is evident in her approach—offering playful creations that flatter and entice in equal measure. Her brand ethos emphasizes ethically crafted pieces with an accessible luxury price point.

While sustainability is a key topic in fashion, Liu prioritizes craftsmanship and longevity in design, encouraging thoughtful consumption over trend-chasing. With this collection, she cements herself as a go-to for those who seek romantic, wearable pieces with a hint of mystery and allure.

via 1202 Magazine/Allina Liu

Melke – Bold, Nostalgic, and Rebelliously Feminine

Emma Gage’s Melke is a slow fashion brand that thrives on bold nostalgia, playful storytelling, and a rebellious spirit. Fall/Winter 2025 leans into '70s-inspired shapes, structured tailoring, and an explosion of patterns that embrace maximalism. The color palette is a mix of classic autumn hues—mustard yellow, cream, and brown—alongside jewel-tone teal, fall’s next ‘it-girl’ shade. Fringe, tassels, and layered ruffles add movement, while gender-blended styling—tweed mini dresses over printed trousers with penny loafers—keeps the collection fresh.

However, half the lineup took a surprising turn with a collaboration featuring Clorox and Hidden Valley Ranch, incorporating bottle prints, logo vests, and spoon-seamed trousers. While Melke has positioned itself as an anti-traditionalist celebration of individuality, this partnership walks the line between quirky branding and commercial compromise.

Still, Gage’s love for Midwestern traditions, potlucks, and supper clubs gives the collection a personal, nostalgic twist. Whether this playful nod to food culture resonates or raises eyebrows, Melke continues to push boundaries, proving that fashion can be both unconventional and deeply personal.

via SHOWstudio/Melke

Unapologetic & Unstoppable

NYFW Fall/Winter 2025 proved that the industry is more than just clothing—it’s a statement, a reflection, and a declaration of self. A common color story emerged across collections, with maroon, pale blue, cream, black, and white forming the foundation, punctuated by subtle pops of color. Instead of bold color shifts, designers focused on reinventing silhouettes, switching up proportions and layering rather than relying on unexpected palettes.

This season leaned into romance and the divine feminine while also being strong and vocal—without saying a word. Whether through sculptural tailoring, ethereal fabrics, or unexpected collaborations, each collection told a story about where fashion—and culture—is headed. The runway wasn’t just about aesthetics; it was about capturing the spirit of the moment and pushing boundaries in the process.

As the industry continues to evolve, one thing is certain—fashion isn’t just following trends, it’s shaping the future.