The Top 5 Shows from MFW Spring-Summer 2025
Milan Fashion Week has officially wrapped, and designers delivered an extraordinary showcase of talent. While veteran icons like Roberto Cavalli captivated with stunning collections, this season also spotlighted a wave of emerging brands that injected fresh energy and creativity into the event. These newcomers brought bold perspectives and innovative designs, elevating the entire Fashion Week experience and reinforcing its relevance. Here are the top five standout shows from the rising stars of Milan Fashion Week.
Florania Explores The Line Between Mother Nature vs. Man
Photo: Florania via Milano Fashion Week
Florania, an emerging clothing brand founded in 2021 by artist and designer Flora Rabitti, has quickly made a name for itself in just three years. Known for its commitment to sustainability, seasonless fashion, and genderless designs, Florania offers a fresh approach to contemporary clothing. Each piece is handmade between Milan and Mantova, underscoring the brand’s dedication to craftsmanship.
For their latest collection, La Fuga, Florania presented 25 looks described as "an oniric movement of escapism through protopian vistas, evoking solar punk architecture and the dark hues of nature." With a backdrop of plants and concrete, the collection beautifully fuses nature and urban elements—symbolizing the coexistence of mother nature and human creation, like grass sprouting from a sidewalk.
La Fuga leans into a grunge aesthetic but with a modern twist. Rabitti avoids the stereotypical all-black palette often associated with grunge by experimenting with vibrant colors, diverse textures, and bold patterns. She isn't afraid to play with the deconstruction of garments, adding rips, ruching, and asymmetry to her designs. This attention to detail, paired with Florania's dedication to eco-friendly practices and innovative materials, sets the brand apart in the fashion industry.
Durazzi Milano Offers Their Take on Spring Minimalist Tailoring
Durazzi Milano, the emerging womenswear brand founded by creative director Ilenia Durazzi, has quickly become known for its sophisticated take on modern minimalism. Drawing inspiration from Durazzi's deep-rooted passions for contemporary art, equestrianism, architecture, and various forms of media, the brand offers a refreshing blend of sleek tailoring and timeless elegance. Durazzi Milano specializes in modern, minimalist clothing that emphasizes quality craftsmanship and a refined aesthetic—values that are evident in its latest collection.
Durazzi’s new collection continues to build on the brand's philosophy of timeless style, while embracing the current tailoring renaissance in womenswear. Designers across the industry have been reinterpreting the rules of traditional menswear tailoring, and Durazzi is no exception. Her collection features impeccable minimalist tailoring, a hallmark of the brand, with a variety of women’s suits for spring. These include lightweight suit shorts and tailored midi skirts, perfect for warmer weather. In addition to suits, the collection introduces spring-ready pieces such as collared maxi dresses and crochet fringe midi dresses, adding a fresh dimension to Durazzi's portfolio.
Though Durazzi Milano is relatively new, having been established only two years ago, Ilenia Durazzi's extensive experience in the fashion industry shines through in her work. Her meticulous attention to detail and clear passion for her craft make her designs stand out. Each piece reflects her deep appreciation not only for fashion, but for women—crafting garments that celebrate both form and function in a way that feels thoughtful and empowering.
Retori Starts a New Journey with Their First Collection
Photo: Retori via Milano Fashion Week
Retori made an impressive debut with their first collection, Chapter 01, after being founded earlier this year by Salma Rachid, who also serves as the brand’s creative director. With all designs crafted in Italy, Retori has already set itself apart with its thoughtful approach to storytelling through fashion. In a statement about the new collection, the brand shared, "Retori’s Chapter 01 collection weaves fragments of life and experiences in its fabric, resorting to artistic expressions to uncover the purity of the universal story." This sentiment is reflected in the collection, which symbolizes both the journey of life and the brand's own beginning in the fashion world.
Inspired by the work of textile artist Diedrick Brackens and painter Daniella Portillo, Retori’s designs skillfully blend art and fashion. The collection incorporates a variety of textures, using fabrics that range from smooth satins to more textured tweeds and knits. This dynamic play on materials not only references the artistic journeys of Brackens and Portillo, but also mirrors Retori’s own exploration as a newcomer to the industry.
Chapter 01 strikes a balance between structured tailoring and a bohemian aesthetic, making it particularly suited for the Spring and Summer seasons. The collection feels fresh and versatile, combining sharp lines with relaxed, artisanal details. Despite being a young brand, Retori’s debut is a clear statement of their passion and vision, hinting at their promising future in fashion. With this strong foundation, Retori is poised to become a notable player in the industry.
Sagaboi Brings Caribbean Carnival and Culture to Milan
Photo: Arun Nevader via Forbes
Sagaboi started in 2015 as a magazine, however, in 2022, the brand rebranded into a men's clothing label. The brand's creative director, Geoff K. Cooper often takes inspiration from Carribean fashion and culture. Even the name, 'Sagaboi' is from the West Indian term, 'Saga Boy' or 'Playboy.' Their Milan Fashion Week show was under the Global Fashion Collective along with brands Tripleroot and Noe Barnacelli. Global Fashion Collective works by emerging designers and brands to gain worldwide exposure and new consumers. Cooper drew inspiration from Caribbean Carnival fashion. He used rich colors like red and yellow that pop in the summer sun. Sagaboi has only had a few collections so far, however, Cooper has been able to design authentically and show his self-expression. Sagaboi aims to highlight Caribbean culture and voices in an industry that is not as diverse as it often claims.
DEFAÏENCE by Nicola Bacchilega’s Collection is Artistry in Motion
Photo: Kapfhammer via DEFAÏENCE
DEFAÏENCE, founded in 2021 by Nicola Bacchilega, has quickly captured attention in the fashion world, propelled by celebrity endorsements and Bacchilega's unique fusion of fashion and sculpture. Drawing inspiration from his love of ceramics and neoclassical sculpture, including the works of artists like Anish Kapoor and Antonio Canova, Bacchilega’s designs are a distinctive blend of art and fashion. This vision was on full display at Milan Fashion Week, where the brand presented its latest collection, Sekhmét.
The Sekhmét collection was a vibrant display of color, featuring shades of gray, purple, tan, and gold. Each garment appeared to be sculpted onto the models, draping elegantly and flowing with their movements, creating a sense of living, wearable art. Bacchilega’s background in visual art shone through in the way the clothing interacted with the body and the environment—garments moved gracefully in the wind, blurring the line between fashion and sculpture.
The collection was also adorned with silver hardware, adding a touch of modern edge, while DEFAÏENCE's signature jewelry pieces served as striking accessories. The intricate craftsmanship and artistic flair of Bacchilega’s designs make it clear that DEFAÏENCE is more than just a fashion brand; it’s a creative force that turns each look into a statement piece.
As a rising brand, DEFAÏENCE has shown tremendous promise, offering garments that exude confidence and originality. With Bacchilega’s clear artistic vision and his ability to merge the worlds of fashion and sculpture, DEFAÏENCE is poised to become a standout name in the industry in the years to come.
A Week Where Emerging Brands Flourished
With Milan Fashion Week ending, it was important to acknowledge the upcoming designers who paved the way for the industry's future. These top five shows from emerging designers show the future trends and direction that the industry is going in. It is easy for the fashion industry to get lost in bigger brands and what they have to offer. This sometimes leaves little room for new designers. However, bigger brands can learn from emerging ones. They show innovation, and vision and are pushing boundaries that haven't been moved before. These designers will allow the industry to continue to thrive. The great thing about Fashion Week is it lets these designers have more of a platform allowing more people to know and support them.
