A Tale of Two Cities: Parisian Romance, Milanese Attitude
Fashion Week Fall/Winter 2025 delivered a masterclass in maximalism, with must-watch runway shows from Dsquared2 and Versace embodying luxury through bold nostalgia, cultural references, and A-list influence. These Milan standouts showcased their marketing prowess, merging historical inspirations with modern celebrity power, proving that fashion’s past is never truly left behind, but repurposed into the future. In Paris, Stella McCartney and Chloé championed a romantic, feminine aesthetic, while in Milan, Dsquared2 and Versace embraced a rockstar edge—undeniably Italian, a little flashy, yet effortlessly chic.
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MAXIMALISM WAS EVERYWHERE.
Le maximalisme était partout.
Il massimalismo era ovunque.
Even the most neutral-colored pieces had an element of extravagance, reinforcing the return of bold creativity across Fashion Week. Each designer impeccably referenced past inspirations while pushing their house codes into the future, proving that history in fashion is cyclical—those who don’t understand the past are bound to repeat it.
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Laptop to Lapdance
Stella McCartney’s collection, provocatively titled "Laptop to Lapdance," blurred the lines between corporate formality and unapologetic sensuality. Transforming the runway into a kitschy office environment, complete with desks, copy machines, and even pole dancers, McCartney reimagined the modern working woman's wardrobe. Front-row starlets Cameron Diaz, Kate Moss, and Ice Spice set the tone for the show, reinforcing the brand’s cool-girl credibility from the moment the first look hit the runway.
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The collection reminisced on 1980s power dressing, featuring oversized double-breasted jackets with exaggerated shoulders, hip-hugging trousers, and ultra-thigh-high vegan leather boots, reminding us that extravagance will continue throughout 2025. The addition of evening wear was a strategic move, solidifying a complete and commercially viable collection. True to her ethos, McCartney’s collection was 96% sustainable, utilizing materials such as vegan leather, plant-based sequins, and mycelium- another leather alternative derived from mushrooms.
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Evolution Collection
Chemena Kamali’s A/W25 "Evolution Collection" for Chloé was a seamless continuation of the vision she set forth in her debut, refining and expanding on her signature expression of the house codes: femininity, pastels, and youth. The collection was steeped in 1970s references, yet rather than feeling like a direct reproduction, it was a masterful reinterpretation of vintage romance through a contemporary lens.
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Flowing chiffon maxi skirts sat effortlessly low on the hips, evoking a sensual, undone elegance, while cropped Victorian-inspired jackets balanced softness with structured, historical drama. Nightgowns, reimagined as everyday wear, featured delicate lace trims and head-to-toe sheerness, amplifying the sense of ethereal womanhood. Accessories reinforced the theme of archival revival: the return of the iconic Paddington bag, accented with trendy purse charms and chains, solidified Chloé’s connection between past and present. Chunky, casually slung belts with oversized C emblems embraced the ongoing return of the low-waist 2000s trend, while peplum—a silhouette once dismissed but now rumored to be making a comeback—felt fresh under Kamali’s touch.
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Adding to the show’s ethereal energy was Doechii, who emerged as the standout starlet of the evening. Barefoot and exuding confidence, she embodied the spirit of the Chloé woman—free, effortless, and in control of her own narrative.
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Dsquared2 Bros. Co.
Dsquared2’s Fall/Winter 2025 show was a bold celebration of the brand’s rebellious spirit, marking its 30th anniversary with a dynamic mix of nostalgia and forward-thinking design. The runway, transformed into a theatrical, nightclub-inspired spectacle, set the stage for a collection rooted in subculture history and dramatic aesthetics. Grammy winner Doechii opened the show in a green corset, denim micro shorts, and a graphic tee, nodding to Naomi Campbell’s iconic 2003 performance. The lineup blended Canadian cowboy influences, disco-era extravagance, glam rock rebellion, and early-2000s excess. Low-rise jeans, trucker hats, and slogan tees highlighted the brand's streetwear origins, while glittering, ice queen ensembles and leather rocker looks brought unrestrained energy to the runway.
via Vogue // The Impression
Closing it out, Campbell made her own striking statement in a lace-up leather bodysuit and thigh-high boots, embodying the brand’s signature blend of glamour and defiance. This milestone anniversary reinforced Dsquared2’s ability to merge fashion with cultural moments, cementing its legacy as a brand that thrives on individuality and provocation. The decision to showcase in Italy, a country known for its bold and expressive fashion scene, further amplified the collection’s impact, cementing its place as a celebration of maximalism at its finest.
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The Ultimate Versace Superhero Moment
Despite swirling rumors about a potential sale of the Versace brand, Donatella Versace's A/W25 presentation confidently reaffirmed the house's position in the fashion industry. The collection served as a tribute to the brand's enduring legacy, seamlessly blending iconic house codes with a fresh, contemporary flair. The inclusively cast show opened with models draped in quilted opera coats and ballgowns crafted from Versace Home bedspreads, playfully blurring the lines between fashion and lived-in luxury.
Donatella also paid homage to her late brother, Gianni Versace, by incorporating archival designs, such as studded pockets from the 1991 collection and metallic evening gowns reminiscent of her 1998 Atelier Versace debut. The collection showcased the brand’s commitment to merging tradition with modernity, featuring innovative techniques like 3D-printed dresses with crystal inserts.
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Versace tapped into the current cultural fascination with Americana while appealing to a global audience by showcasing a harmonious fusion of dark glamour and equestrian-inspired aesthetics. Sleek silhouettes were adorned with bold prints, including the house's iconic baroque patterns, and a touch of cowboy cool. Notable pieces featured tailored jackets paired with high-waisted trousers, fringed leather skirts, and embellished denim ensembles. The use of rich fabrics and intricate detailing exemplified Versace's commitment to luxury and craftsmanship. In essence, Versace's Fall/Winter 2025 was a masterclass in balancing reverence for the past with an eye toward the future, maintaining the house's status as a beacon of Italian luxury fashion.
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It was the best of times…
As Fall/Winter 2025 came to a close, it was clear that designers created with empowerment in mind, responding to both fashion’s cyclical nature and the broader political and economic landscape. The resurgence of maximalism felt like a direct reaction to uncertainty—a global declaration of resilience, self-expression, and interconnectedness. Power suiting reemerged with a seductive edge, hip-hugging trousers and denim dominated, while glamour was redefined through bold statements that felt both nostalgic and futuristic. Designers didn’t just nod to the past; they reclaimed it, reworked it, and sent it strutting into a future where fashion remains a reflection of the world around us.
via CNN Style