Ann Lowe: The Black Designer Behind Mid-Century New York Society
Ann Lowe is a name that many do not know, yet many have seen her beautiful everlasting designs. As a black woman who strived and succeeded to build a career as a fashion designer, she paved the path for many more to come after her. In the mid-twentieth century, Coco Chanel, Givenchy, and Christian Dior reigned over the fashion world, but also during that time, black designer Ann Lowe was designing elegant styles for the upper class.
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Lowe’s dressmaking roots run deep. Her grandmother, who had been enslaved, was a dressmaker. Her mother was also a seamstress who specialized in embroidery. Lowe’s impeccable dressmaking skills were learned from the matriarchs of her family. She worked on her first high profile job for Alabama’s first lady after her mother tragically passed away and could not complete the project herself. From that moment on, Ann Lowe knew she could make a name for herself as a fashion designer.
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Lowe moved from Alabama to Tampa, Florida to become a live-in dressmaker for the wife of a successful citrus grower. Her time in Florida marked some of the best years of her life. She designed wedding gowns and beautiful dresses that became status symbols of Tampa society. Her name was known down in Florida, and she was receiving the recognition she deserved. Her famous organza flower petal details and perfect tailoring were Lowe’s signature details that made her a success. However, being a black woman trying to build a successful business in the Jim Crow south came with many obstacles. Eventually, in 1928 the brilliant designer moved up north to New York.
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During the Depression Era, Ann Lowe searched for work where she could. No one was coming to her to be dressed by her. She persevered and found work where she could, freelancing and designed for people who found the beauty of her designs. From wedding gowns to debutante dresses, Ann Lowe worked hard and got her dazzling designs out into New York society through her own business, “Ann Lowe’s Gowns” that she started in 1950. She dressed Oscar-winning actress Olivia de Havilland and the heiress/philanthropist Marjorie Merriweather Post. Though, her most famous and well known work is none other than the wedding dress of Jackie Kennedy. A monumental wedding for the ages occurred in the early 1950s between Jackie and John F. Kennedy, and Anne Lowe’s design was the star of the occasion. Jackie Kennedy’s wedding dress is one of the most photographed bridal gowns in history; a dress that will live on throughout history designed by Ann Lowe herself. However, after being referred to as “a colored dressmaker” in press coverage of the wedding, Ann Lowe stood up for herself and expressed her deep disappointment to Jackie Kennedy’s secretary. Over time, Jackie Kennedy tried to apologize and make up for the distress that the lack of recognition caused for Lowe.
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Ann Lowe continued creating beautiful and intricate designs with amazing craftsmanship, but continued to be paid less for her designs than other white designers at the time. After an unfortunate deal with Saks caused Ann Lowe to declare bankruptcy, she went to work for Madeleine Couture, a small custom shop. Eventually, Ann Lowe began to suffer from cataracts and pursued her career by dictating her design ideas for someone else to bring to life on paper and on a dress form. Her vision further deteriorated and forced her to retire.
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The designs of Ann Lowe sparkled and shined amongst the elite of America, yet due to her race, she was never able to receive the full recognition that she earned. Today, however, the legacy of Ann Lowe continues to inspire new generations of designers. Her dresses live on at the Smithsonian National Museum of African American History and Culture, the Metropolitan Museum of Art, the Museum of the City of New York, and The Museum at FIT. She worked hard in an era that worked against her, but it has paid off, as the secret of Ann Lowe has been shared with the rest of the fashion world.