Jean Paul Gaultier’s Body Sharp Tailoring is Presented By Haider Ackermann
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Jean Paul Gaultier had the audience completely transfixed with the sense of high value designs. Gaultier’s haute couture house ateliers who expressed it in body-sharp tailoring and crisp drape. Color blocking, mixed materials, and flowy silhouettes proved essential and modern, while remaining true to the meaning of haute couture. The take on masculine-feminine etched a fashion legacy with a minimal and sexy collection.
Haider Ackermann is the fourth of the designers to have been asked for a one-season collaboration since Gaultier retired. He studied Gaultier’s tailoring and went back to the basics. “To go back to the essence of his work, which was perfect. People forget how immaculate his tailoring was. His work was magical. So I tried to go back to the pure lines, to find a calmness and moment of grace. Because I believe his work was magical.” (Vogue Runway)
The models came out and embodied the spirit of old-world couture stances. The pace and intimacy of the staging was a key factor in being able to take in the details and silhouette up close. The white cuffs on black trouser suits, with tailcoats and conceptual pockets, to two-piece sets and jackets combined a fusion of Ackermann and Gaultier. Ackermann proved himself as an exceptional colorist and dressmaker.
The gowns and varieties of chic coat dresses with contrasting linings showed the power of chic and dramatic minimalism. His main mission: bringing back haute couture to clothes. “And so, to design is one of the most wonderful feelings. I really love my job, and this made me love it even more. It’s been like a love affair between me, and the ladies in the atelier.” (Vogue Runway).
Each of the looks was carefully crafted to pay homage to Gaultier and to remind the fashion industry of Ackermann’s talent, his gift for color combinations, and his flair for aesthetic gestures. His versions of tuxedos were unexpected slashes of gentle frayed ribbons, folds of thick satin, and pleated gowns.
Ackermann’s take on evening wear mixed with a structural yet fluidity was incredibly striking. From bride-like shapes to a bright orange silk jumpsuit to embellished headpieces, Gaultier himself sat front row smiling the entire time. The Jean Paul Gaultier spring 2023 haute couture proved Ackermann as an incredibly talented designer in the fashion industry today.
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