Mugler’s Runway Return was as Sexy and Iconic as we’d Imagine

Mugler is finally back on the runway after three years to showcase its 2023 fall ready-to-wear collection. With a star studded and diverse cast with surprise factor; Ziwe. Who made her runway debut along with the world’s most iconic models including Dominique Jackson, Debra Shaw, Amber Valetta and Eva Herzigova. 

Courtesy of Danielle Oberrauch

Casey Cadwallader, who has been the creative director of Mugler since 2017, presented the fashion houses’ first runway collection since Thierry Mugler’s death last year. This show proved that Cadawallder can successfully keep Mugler’s experimental vision alive. 

Perhaps the most valuable aspect of the show was the diversity in age, gender, size, and ethnicity of the cast. In the movement towards inclusivity, much of haute couture is still struggling to keep up, and Mugler does, and has done, more than many of their peers. This is especially true because each model seemed purposefully chosen, rather than an afterthought, as is often the case with diverse models. 

The collection itself, presented in a predominantly black color palette, was made primarily of those sexy materials leather and lace. It is architectural and inventive in its cuts, with broad shoulders and exaggerated shapes that counteracted tiny waists and stretched lace. 

A leather motorcycle jacket worn over a delicate bodysuit that was more cut-out than lace. A one sleeved, one legged leather suit with almost nothing on the other side. Though this juxtaposition of tough and delicate is not new, it is effective as ever, especially in Mugler’s precise designs.

The most interesting pieces in the collection were the most sculptural. These pieces have given up any semblance of real-world function, which few Mugler pieces have anyway; a metallic chest piece that only resembles a bra probably couldn't be worn anywhere other than at a fashion show, and that is precisely why it works so well on the runway.