The Fashion Industry Needs to do More for Adaptive Fashion
Model Aaron Rose Philip Photo: i-D via: i-D
Adaptive Fashion is the universal term for fashion that is designed specifically for people with disabilities. These disabilities include physical and sensory disabilities, as well as cognitive ones. The point of it being adaptive is that it adapts to the specific needs and abilities of a person to allow them to put on or take off clothing without any difficulty. The adaptive fashion sector should not be as small and underrepresented as it currently is. According to the CDC, about one in four adults in the United States have a form of a disability. Globally, it is one in six according to the World Health Organization. Even with these numbers, the fashion industry mostly excludes the disabled community. Most brands do not even acknowledge them in their designs, let alone cater to them.
Models Aaron Rose Philip and Gigi Hadid backstage at Moschino's Spring/Summer 2022 Show Photo: Marco Ovando via: Popsugar
Currently, the fashion industry is heavily industrialized and mass produced and often makes clothing that does not cater to specific consumers’ clothing needs. The clothing is made to be ‘universal’ to consumers with the typical standard sizes of S, M and L (with some making XS and XL). Currently, there is a huge disconnect between what disabled people need and the fashion industry striving to make a profit by making as many clothes as possible. In addition to these design problems, disabled people are often left out of the marketing campaigns and advertising from fashion brands. For now, it seems like the fashion industry completely erases disabled people and their experiences.
Sinéad Burke in British Vogue’s May 2023 Issue Photo: Adama Jalloh via: British Vogue
Writer Sinéad Burke has a form of dwarfism called achondroplasia and was on the cover of British Vogue's May 2023 Issue that featured multiple figures with disabilities. She said, “For me, fashion is not just about buying into a notion or buying something that’s beautiful. It’s about confidence and empowerment, but it also facilitates me having to explain myself...[S]ometimes, I have to explain that I am older than people think I am, that I am perhaps more sophisticated than people might think I am and when I am dressed the way in which I want to be, I don’t have to explain that...because whilst I want coats to be functional and shoes to be functional, I also want them to be beautiful and often we forget about those principles about beauty when we are designing for disability. We solely focus on the impairment and making things better…”
Tommy Hilfiger’s ‘Tommy Adaptive’ Kids Line Photo: Tommy Hilfiger via Today
Adaptive fashion can be an expensive endeavor, but it is not impossible to achieve. There are brands that have used their resources to create adaptive clothing collections. For instance, last spring, Kim Kardashian’s SKIMS launched an adaptive clothing line called ADAPTIVE FITS that includes bras, bralettes and underwear that have various features such as front closures. Additionally, the brand Tommy Hilfiger has one called Tommy Adaptive that includes the brand's clothing modified with features such as magnetic buttons, one handed zippers, etc. Although these collections are admittedly smaller than their other collections and the bare minimum for any brand to do for its consumers, it is certainly a start and shows that this endeavor is not impossible to do for bigger brands.
SKIMS ‘Adaptive Fits’ Line Campaign Photo: SKIM via Dezeen
There are also brands that design and sell solely adaptive garments. For instance, the brand Von Ruz by designer Vongi Noreen Ruzive is based on her experiences with family members on the autism spectrum. The brand has clothing that has magnetic zips, snaps and other features that make clothing easier to put on and take off. There is also the Canadian brand IZ Adaptive started by designer Isabel Camilleri, after she spent several years creating custom clothing for a client in a wheelchair with paralysis. This experience moved her to start the brand as a way to cater clothing to people with physical disabilities.
IZ Adaptive Fall 2016 Campaign Photo: Chris Chapman via Fashionista
This is a missed opportunity for fashion brands because they are missing out on a huge market. According to Forbes, disabled people represent ¼ of adults and their buying power in America is $490 billion. That is a big number and is something that should not be ignored. Due to the mass production of clothing and brands not designing with disabled people in mind, their clothing choices are often limited and inhibits disabled people from wearing the clothing they want to. Adaptive clothing is important because it allows disabled people to express themselves and be a part of the fashion world by putting on clothes that are both attractive and functional. It allows a growth of independence and saves extra money needed to make alterations to non-adaptive clothing.
Von Ruz Clothing Campaign Photo: Von Ruz via Birdie
Disabled people barely get any options from brands, and it can be disappointing to want to buy something from a brand but they can’t because of something beyond their control. Disabled consumers should not have to adapt or change clothing, the industry needs to adapt and change to them. Adaptive fashion needs to be a much bigger industry than it has been. Additionally, adaptive fashion brands need to be pushed more within the industry so consumers know who they are. The fashion industry has the power to make disabled people feel good, empower them and grow their independence, they just need to use that power.
