The Hottest Designers of NYFW
The Fall/Winter 2022 collections presented this past week in New York were nothing short of spectacular. Some of the best collections were presented by three of the fashion industry’s biggest names and designers. Anna Sui, Elena Velez, and Collina Strada–all run by women at the helm–showcased their visionary designs at New York Fashion Week.
No one knows how to do retro in an ever so relevant way quite like Anna Sui does. Her Fall/Winter 2022 collection that was presented during New York fashion week in February. The latest retro collection of Anna Sui has a fascinating inspiration story rooted in the sixties with sprinkles of the nineties in the designs. Ready, Steady, Go, a British television concert show, was the main inspiration behind the collection. In an interview with Vogue, Anna Sui stated that she aimed to capture the “innocence and optimism” of the light and fun sixties television show. People would look to that show for new outfit styles to try out for themselves on the weekends. Plaid dresses, skirts, and blazer-style jackets create a cozy, retro vibe, and the striking houndstooth pattern thrown into the collection showcase a more structured style. Sui included some polished pattern coats as well as some fluffy and brightly colored coats for a more wild vibe. Hints of the seventies appear in the striped dresses and the nineties appear the details of the name plate belts. The blend of eras works astonishingly well together, and once again, Anna Sui stood out from the rest at fashion week.
American designer Elena Velez presented a collection at New York Fashion Week for a second time (the first time being just months ago in September 2021). Originality and community are at the core of her brand. As a young designer, she has worked hard to establish herself in the industry in a unique way. She collaborates with local “makers” in her hometown of Milwaukee, Wisconsin to create products outside of her own clothing designs, like furniture and jewelry which is promoted and sold on her own e-commerce site. Her Fall 2022 collection, presented at the Freehand Hotel, featured her own version of femininity that can only be described as rugged and gritty. She chooses to work with strong, tough fabrics that are made to last including old ship sails. The unrefined nature of the fabrics and materials is balanced with gentle, flowy silhouettes along with more form fitting, curve hugging silhouettes. Textured, distressed, and gauzy neutrals clung to the models bodies as they strutted down the runway showcasing a unique perspective of the meaning of femininity. A black dress featuring a romantic shoulder style and tears in the mid-section and a chunky white knit set of a skirt and corset like top are some of the standouts in Elena Velez’s tough, yet gentle Fall 2022 collection.
Pastels and neons flourish and excite in Collina Strada’s Fall Ready-to-Wear 2022 collection. Hillary Taymour, the brand’s creative director, made a splash at fashion week with her early 2000s inspired collection. Her new collection takes the Y2K trends to a whole other level. Silky skirts layered over patterned pants and funky low rise pants paired with belts draped on the hips were showcased in this collection of fresh designs. A few bold hip-accentuating silhouettes were included in the mostly soft, slouchy designs. The varying silk, velvet, and mesh textures heightened the visual interest of the playfully curated collection. As creative director of Collina Strada, Taymour has taken steps towards more sustainable creations, without sacrificing any of her tremendous creativity in her designs. She acknowledges that her brand is not a hundred percent sustainable, yet she does what she can to mitigate the negative impact the fashion industry has on the environment. Taymour has previously used fabric made out of rose petals, a sustainable silk alternative, and she often uses deadstock material, which helps reduce waste. As Collina Strada grows, it may be harder to implement sustainable practices, but at the current level of her company, Taymour is able to have more control over how she chooses to create more environmentally conscious designs.
These three iconic female design powerhouses showcased some of their best creations for Fall/Winter 2022 at New York Fashion Week. Each woman has her own signature style that is at the root of their designs. Anna Sui’s retro styles from a combination of fashion eras, rugged femininity from Elena Velez, and bright and fun 2000s era styles of Collina Strada will no doubt be some of the more popular trends when the Fall/Winter 2022 season rolls around.