Your Guide to NYFWs SS23 Runway Shows
NYFW has been short of epic with events and parties around every corner; there hasn’t really been time to sit down and take it all in. Don’t worry, here is your complete guide to New York Fashion Week’s most memorable runway shows.
Contemporary knitwear brand, PH5, showed their latest collection. PH5 challenges conventional vision on knitwear creating whimsical designs mixed with architectural dimensions. Lin and Champion, the co-founders, found a middle ground between androgynous and femenine style crying edgy-femme innovative knitwear. This time around their collection was a statement on the importance of ocean preservation and their signature wavy hemmed dresses and necklines weren’t missing.
Hernandez and McCollough know who they are designing for a chic, elegant and urban person. Every piece they make is so easy and light that it makes the person who wears it achieve the ultimate “easy” and “effortless” look. Proenza Schouler brought the waterworks to NYC, clearly it was the theme of the collection. Representing the liquid element, the design duo incorporated their signature fringe which pulled the whole collection together. Overall the Proenza Schouler minimalistic element mixed with the metallic threads, fringes, ruffles, floor length bell-sleeves and textures made this monochrome collection an absolute hit.
Italian luxury fashion brand, Marni, made its NYFW debut with a multicolor distressed collection. Psychedelic-grunge is the whole mood for Rissos’ latest runway show. So far knitwear is the ultimate go-to trend at NYFW and Marni gave us the chicest sunset-hued pieces. It really felt like summer in the city with the skimpy dresses, distressed knitwear, revealing cut-outs, light layering and layer than life pants and accessories. The mismatched aesthetic was done to perfection as every texture and partner aligned with each other perfectly, making a beautiful chaotic visual mess. It even gave a feeling of DIY energy with the crocheted tops and knitwear.
If you are looking for the ultimate, perfectly tailor-made, oversized, cool working-girl aesthetic look no further. Peter Do made Fashion Week history when JENO made his runway debut, becoming the first K-pop star to kick off a NYFW presentation. JENO opened the show in a stunning all black ensemble that framed his figure to perfection. If I could I would take home every single piece of clothing from Peter Do’s collection. It was so absolutely perfect it gave me chills. There is just something so special on how he transforms basic pieces and creates timeless, modern, edgy, genderless pieces. The collection featured monochromatic outfits that played with proportion through structural suits, transparencies, bell-sleeves, layering of skirt on pants and flowy pants. Can’t get tired of looking at it.
Sustainable womenswear brand, Mirror Palais, made its runway debut at fashion’s meca; NYFW. A debut that couldn't be done anywhere else, as every garment is made and designed in New York. Inside the Church of Ascension, models made their way down the aisle in the brand's signature sultry, body-hugging draped silhouettes. All garments from the heavenly collection are made from deadstock fabric. Designer, Marcelo Gaia, presents his own version and exploration of Old World religious references re-interpreted in his own modern way as a way to tell his own experience growing up in church.
The collection was truly a religious experience as clothes referenced sexy nun attire, transparencies allowed the body to be shown and there was no covering of shoulders, legs or arms. A beautiful juxtaposition of distinct ideals that fashion, once again, breaks through.
Dauphinette is another up and coming label just founded 4 years ago, a young fashion house is all about creativity infused with curiosity. A showstopping visual curated by unconventional materials and techniques. The runway collection presents a conceptualizado selection of ready-to-wear pieces made from repurposed textiles, preserved botanicals and resin. Cheng, the brands designer, is a resin master and Gigi Hadid rocked one of her dangling sunflower earrings at a special Sunday Sitdown show.
Bad Binch TONGTONG partnered with Cider to create a digital fashion collection inspired by Alice in Wonderland. This Fashion Week really wanted the unlicensed to be a part of the whole experience and Bad Binch TONGOTNG invited viewers to experience its three piece digital clothing via interactive installations. In addition, their digital designs are available on the metaverse as wearable limited pieces.
For their inaugural SS23 collection they put together a choreographed dance presentation at The Pfizer Building where dancers wore the silhouette transforming pieces. Reincarnating in the form of spiders, octopi, centipedes, sirens and sun-like shapes.
Guests were treated to a maximalist and theatrical presentation at the Christian Cowan show. A show fit for the designer who creates the daring looks worn by Lady Gaga, Beyoncé and Miley Cyrus. His collection reminded us all that fashion can and should be fun.
Courtesy of Footwear News
It couldn't be a maximalist over the top collection without Crocs. Cowan teamed up with Crocs to create three different designs that include a 61mm tall rubber Croc with detachable metallic chains, a yin and yang Croc and an oversized pink Croc adorned with pink bows.
Since his move to LA from New York in 2017, Brandon Maxwell has leaned into a more tranquil and serene space. That was what his SS23 collection felt like, a break from the craziness and party-like vibe that is NYFW.
Teasing guests as they arrived into what seemed a glamorous refined nightclub, with white carpeting and neon lights only to be surprised by the sound of birds chirping and soft colored lights.
Still the collection was filled with toned down colors and sequins which made this new relaxed Brandon Maxwell still vibrant and youthful. White tees were layered underneath sheer gowns, tops and sequined mini strapless gowns. All fits were on the oversized side allowing free movement that just feels comfortable.
Tommy Hilfiger made its comeback too to New York with a star studded Andy Warhol inspired runway show. Even as rain came down the models strutted the runway with the slightest of slips as show goers wore ponchos.
The Skyline Drive-In resembled a modern pop art studio where bright red, blue and white lights reflected the stage. As models made their way down the wet runway it was evident that diversity in casting was strongly present.
Beach as inspiration for a summer/spring collection seems as obvious as leather for winter, but the beach Stuart Vevers referenced is one that pays homage to NYC.
New Yorkers head to Coney Island or the West Side where they can relax and hang by the pier. It’s clear that the idea of the collection was to go to the beach in whatever you are wearing, this could mean an oversized motorcycle leather jacket and nothing else.
The best was saved for last as Lil Nas X made his runway debut closing the show in a patchwork leather vest. The singer and brand ambassador is part of Coach’s continuing effort of creating new archetypes within the brand. Who better to represent this change than Lil Nas X who is a champion of challenging gender and sexuality norms.
