Moschino’s Nod to Punk
It’s classic, elegant beauty meeting gothic punk. For fall 2023, Jeremy Scott imbued the punk scene into some of the brand’s signature looks, like tweed suits and tailored pieces.
Photo: Daniele Oberrauch via Vogue
Scott took classic looks and turned them on their head; dresses and skirts looked like they were melting (a nod to Dali’s The Persistence of Memory), houndstooth suits had raw hems, blazers had leather lapels. The details here demonstrate the masterful vision that Scott held; buttons also appeared to be melting, patterns were distorted. And, of course, all of the items that these pieces were paired with played an important role as well. A tweed blazer over a mesh black top, or fishnet stockings, for example.
Photos: Daniele Oberrauch via Vogue
Each of the models wore large, black feathered headpieces that resembled spiked gothic hairstyles, such as mohawks. The jewelry was just as important in the juxtaposition between classic and punk. Stunning brooches pinned all over the necklaces dripping with gemstones, oversized, almost royal earrings were paired with spiked wrist cuffs, chokers, and even, in one instance, a chain mace.
The collection, comprising 51 looks, was particularly large. As the show went on, looks strayed away from this classical nod and became grander, with princess ball gowns, punk leather looks, and everything in between.
Photos: Daniele Oberrauch via Vogue
The colors were predominantly black and purple, with moments of red, pink, orange and white throughout. The commitment to playing with punk was also present throughout the collection. These two aspects contained the collection into one theme, though not much else did. While there is something to be said about a connection between royal and classic Hollywood glamor (both present in the second half) and the classic elegance played with in the first half, it is a rather tenuous one.
Jeremy Scott is unafraid to bring playfulness into Moschino’s collections. Last year, there were inflatables adorning each piece in the collection. This same playfulness and desire to address the times (inflation, deflation) was certainly present in this collection. The juxtaposition between classic and punk styles was particularly fun and definitely appropriate, though a little more cohesion would have served the collection well.