Fashion’s Revolving Door: Why Luxury Fashion Brands Love Exchanging Creative Directors

Designer and Creative Director Virgil Abloh with supermodel Naomi Campbell Photo: Catwalking via Vogue

In the world of luxury fashion, few events generate as much excitement—or disappointment—as the announcement of a new creative director. This year alone, brands from Gucci to Celine have appointed new creative leaders, many of whom have come from competing firms. Given their rich heritage and decades of history, luxury brands must continually adapt to meet the demands of modern consumers and remain relevant.

The practice of exchanging creative directors has emerged as a key strategy for luxury brands seeking to enhance their marketing, relevance, and sales appeal. By appointing established creative directors, brands can better navigate the fast-evolving fashion landscape and pop culture. Additionally, the influence and celebrity status of these directors enable them to maintain a presence within the industry while collaborating with various brands.

However, as this trend becomes more common, it's worth considering the potential benefits and drawbacks of such frequent leadership changes.

Viktor and Rolf Spring 2023 Couture Show Photo: Francois Durand via CNN Style 

What are Creative Directors in Fashion?

A creative director is the most significant creative position for luxury fashion brands. They oversee the creative vision and trajectory of a brand, working with multiple teams to create concepts and themes for collections, marketing campaigns, and the brand's aesthetic. Creative directors are symbols of the brands themselves, often carrying an air of celebrity. This means that when a brand experiences controversy or releases a flawed collection, the responsibility falls on the creative director.

Creative directors are not a new position within fashion; many well-known historical figures in the industry have held this title. For example, Yves Saint Laurent was a renowned creative director synonymous with his namesake brand, becoming one of the most popular designers in Paris at the time. Even today, Yves Saint Laurent is still a popular brand, and its founder remains a significant figure in fashion history for his influence.

Balmain Ready to Wear Spring 2021 Photo: Andrea Adriani via Vogue

Why Hire a Veteran Creative Director?

The Benefits:

There are various reasons why brands would look to hire a more seasoned creative director for a brand. One of the main reasons is their experience and tenure. Brands see what they did with their previous brand as a portfolio to see what they have done or are capable of. They have the credibility to deliver a meaningful collection. If they make waves through their professional experience, they can bring attention to any brand they are a part of, which is great marketing. Creative directors are the new IT celebrities, they create buzz and drive traffic on their own. They have a strong image and personal brand that allows them to be popular whether attached to a brand or not.

This celebrity contributes to a brand's popularity or allure. If consumers like a particular designer's creative abilities or aesthetic, they will be more likely to buy from their new brand. Additionally, many creative directors utilize social media to gain a bigger fanbase. They have a strong social media presence, often utilizing it to market their new collections and shows. This allows them to reach a younger audience and consumer base with their new design perspectives.

The rotating of creative directors can create more emerging trends. Different demographics can be more likely to look to a brand if they have a successful collection with a new creative director. This gives brands a new brand identity creatively. For example, before he departed from Celine earlier this month, Hedi Slimane completely shifted the style and aesthetic of the brand from his predecessor, Phoebe Philo's more minimalist approach. At first, he received criticism, however, eventually his changes to the fashion brands proved successful. Creative directors can encourage collaboration between brands and their celebrity friends or collaborators, especially if they leave a brand on good terms. 

Simon Jacquemus (center) with models at his Spring 2018 Ready to Wear Show Photo: Jacquemus x Woolmark via Vogue

The Downsides:

Hiring a veteran creative director can have its downsides. One issue is the risk of complacency; directors who have been in the industry for a long time may lose the creativity that initially made them successful. On the other hand, if they implement too many changes, the brand might lose its identity and alienate loyal customers. The fashion industry is ever-evolving, and creative directors must adapt while preserving their brand's core identity. For instance, Alessandro Michele’s time at Gucci showcased his unique style while honoring the brand's heritage, so much so that his collections at Valentino have been dubbed "Gucci 2.0."

There are also business implications to consider when bringing in a veteran creative director. It can be a significant financial risk, especially if their style doesn’t align with the brand. Additionally, conflicts may arise between the creative director and corporate management regarding the brand's artistic direction. With the rise of conglomerates like LVMH, which manage the business aspects of luxury brands, any negative publicity from a creative director's hiring or collection can impact the conglomerate's mission. Ultimately, if a creative director does not enhance a brand's profitability, their role may be questioned.

Ralph Lauren Spring 2025 Ready to Wear Photo: Zach Hilty via Highsnobiety

The Future of Fashion Ever-Revolving Door

Rotating creative directors has become a staple for luxury brands, and so far, the trend has proven successful. Hiring veteran creative directors offers a range of benefits, from reinvention to significant fashion influence. A successful creative director can serve as a powerful marketing tool, attracting new audiences and generating hype for a brand. Depending on their vision, this strategy can effectively strengthen a brand's presence.

However, there are downsides to this approach. Not every brand and creative director meshes well creatively or aesthetically. If loyal consumers are attached to specific creative ideas and a brand undergoes too many changes, they risk losing that loyalty, which can impact marketing positioning.

In the ever-changing fashion landscape, finding the right fit between a brand and a creative director is crucial, as it can either strengthen or weaken the brand's identity. The ongoing rotation of creative directors raises questions about the sustainability of this model for heritage brands. It remains uncertain whether this tactic will continue to be effective in the future. As the fashion industry faces new challenges, it may be time to welcome more fresh faces into the fold.